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Author Topic: In-dash Boost Gauge  (Read 55057 times)
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'95MSM
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Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« on: May 21, 2008, 07:10:23 PM »



I haven't completed the wiring, but the Speedhut gauge (with a lot of fiddling, cutting and filing to the gauge housing) can be mounted in place of the fake oil pressure gauge.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
MSMemt
not your sister's miata
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jinba ittai


« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2008, 07:11:07 PM »

That sir, is amazing.   afro afro afro Shocked

if you wanna get real crazy, paint that rim silver!
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two hundred and ten not-so-furious horsepowers.  i can has more horsepowers?
MSpeedM
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« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2008, 07:13:48 PM »

 Very Very Nice! Good job on that...I may be able to get A/C to the left side of my face after all  Grin
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2005 Black Mica, Built Motor w/ Forged Internals (Supertech Pistons, Wiseco XX Rings, Manley Rods), FMII w/ gt2560, FM Full 3" DP/Exhaust, Hydra 2.7, Fab9 FMIC, DW 700cc inj, FM 36-2 Timing Wheel, BE Billet Oil Pump, 949 6UL 15x8 on Toyo R888, FM Crossflow Rad, Comp Clutch Stage 2 & LW Flywheel, HKS SSQBOV, Moroso Air/Oil Separator, FM Check Valve, Tein Street Flex, RB Front sway bar w/ RB end links, Hallman Pro RX MBC

Coming Soon: OIL COOLING!  Eventually the FM Happy Meal will be needed as well.
emexfive
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« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2008, 07:25:04 PM »

That is awesome!!! If you have the inclination I'd LOVE to see a howto on that. Then I could put a real oil pressure gauge in my custom 3 gauge set up over my head unit.

Do you can to wire around any of the PC circuits that might have been cut away? Is it a major science project? I assume so.
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Black mica 05, Full FM DP/exhaust, BEGI CAI intake and FMIC, Hydra, 550 injects, Wilwood/Racing Brake big brakes, 16" Volk TE37s with 225/40 T1-Rs. Ohlins DFV coilovers, etc, etc...
'95MSM
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Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #4 on: May 21, 2008, 08:24:31 PM »

(For ease of discussion, I'm going to call the gauge housing a cup.)

The Speedhut gauge can be disassembled rather easily.  The silver trim ring screws onto the cup, holding the "stack" together.  Front to rear, the stack consists of the lens, a spacer ring, the faceplate w/ lighting, another plastic spacer and the meter printed circuit board.  Cutting the wires is a "commitment" step, but otherwise you can't separate the gauge movement from the cup. 

Cut the cup back so that the side of the cup projects no further than about 1/8" beyond the faceplate.  The cut edge will not be visible, so no concern for aesthetics.   You will be taking about 1/4" off of the cup, sawing right through the threads molded into the lower set of threads molded into the cup.

There are four guides molded into the cup.  These guides keep the various parts of the gauge lined up.  With the wiring hole down, fit the cup into the area vacated by the OEM oil pressure display.  You'll see various protrusions in the area the gauge mounts in, but no modifications to the stock housing or flexible printed circuit are required other than a hole for the gauge wires.  A notch has to be cut across the top back of the gauge cup to set the depth. Approx 5/8" of the lower side of the cup must be removed and the left side thinned to get the gauge positioned accurately up/down and left/right (the pocket isn't symetrical around the gauge).  I used the piece removed from the bottom side of the cup as a shim between the right turn signal light tower to wedge the cup into position.  I don't think it will require any additional mounting, but if necessary, I'll put a couple of dabs of hotmelt glue to keep the shim firmly in place.

The wiring is too heavy and too inflexible to route the bundle through available space.  I'll re-wire with lighter gauge wiring, and I probably won't bother wiring the electro luminescence face plate.

I hope Axiomtherapy checks back in and sees the thread.  I purchased the used gauge from him & I don't think I would have ever tried this if my starting point was a new $170 gauge.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
emexfive
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« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2008, 08:34:19 PM »

So there's no big mods needed to the stock gauge cluster? I was thinking that was one big unit on our cars, but I have replaced single gauges on my 91 and I'd guess it must be the same.

Very cool work 95!!
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Black mica 05, Full FM DP/exhaust, BEGI CAI intake and FMIC, Hydra, 550 injects, Wilwood/Racing Brake big brakes, 16" Volk TE37s with 225/40 T1-Rs. Ohlins DFV coilovers, etc, etc...
rotorglow
Toyotae non carborundum.
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« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2008, 10:11:35 PM »

That looks pretty fantastic.  Kudos. 

What are you doing about the min/max set button on the boost gauge?  Will that be accessible through the lens for the gauge cluster?

Or are you deciding not to worry about it?
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2004 VR Sport: FM Big Enchilada w/ Hydra 2.7 + DeatschWerks 700cc injectors + FM crossflow rad + 3.63 rear gears + ES poly diff bushings + comp motor mounts--Koni Sports + Ground Control 550/375 + Racing Beat 1.125" bar + blocks & bolts--Wilwood/AX6 brakes--15x8 6ULs + RE-71Rs--Speedhut + Clearwaters + Auxmod + other misc electrics
CharlesE
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Southeastern Connecticut


« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2008, 10:21:24 PM »

Uh.....Wow.... Magnificent install.  This needs to become a FAQ classic.  If you can still do it, more pics of the install, please.
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2004 VR MSM - FM (CAI, Downpipe, O2 Modifier, Full Exhaust, PCV, Timing Belt Kit), Hallman MBC, Silver Star Headlights, Speedhut Boost Gauge, Stainless Steel Brake & Clutch lines, Thompson Air Horn, Mobil 1, Gates Racing Belts, Samco Hoses, Hitemp Brake Fluid, Passport Detector, GPS Drive Navigation (I-Phone), 15x8 6UL's and 205 RE-11's, Carbotech AX6's, Exedy Stage 1 Clutch, FM V-Maxx Stage 2 Suspension, 949 End Links.  MR Roadster Short Shifter Kit

Arguing with an engineer is like wrestling with a pig in mud....After a while you realize they like it.
haverty
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Posts: 5570



« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2008, 10:22:22 PM »

looks good man, what are you doing for an oil pressure gauge?
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MODS - Hydra Nemesis, Garrett GT28r, custom intake, chopped/custom FM downpipe, Borla full exhaust, Supertech pistons 8.8-1 cr, crs-5230 H-beam rods, titanium valve springs/retainers, SS +1mm intake valves, Inconel +1mm exhaust valves, greddy oil catch, greddy intercooler, HKS manifold, ARP studs in all places, port and polished cylinder head, Exedy stage 2 six puck clutch disk, fidanza 8 pound flywheel,  mounted laptop for hydra control, Falken Azenis RT-615, Earl's Prolite series hoses, Gates Racing Kevlar timing belt, Samco sport radiator hoses, custom oil cooler, MSM leather seats(!), Optima Battery.
emexfive
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Posts: 4576



« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2008, 10:23:27 PM »

Yes pics of the guts please if it's not a major pain in the rear!!!!!
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Black mica 05, Full FM DP/exhaust, BEGI CAI intake and FMIC, Hydra, 550 injects, Wilwood/Racing Brake big brakes, 16" Volk TE37s with 225/40 T1-Rs. Ohlins DFV coilovers, etc, etc...
mikethemachinist
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Posts: 2154


Columbia, South Carolina


« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2008, 10:29:18 PM »

Wow, kudos man, nice job  shocked shockeyes afro
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Aruba
2004 Titanium, #3838
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« Reply #11 on: May 21, 2008, 11:53:37 PM »

Great job there, my man.  I once thought about doing that with a real oil pressure gauge in my '01 NB, but it's much better with the boost gauge -- puts it right in the line of sight where you want and need it.  Brilliant!
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Black w/silver lip 15x8 +36 offset 6UL wheels with 225/45/15 Toyo R888 tires; FM IC, GFB-BOV, MBC, O2 modifier, DP and full turbo exhaust; BEGI throttle inlet duct and full BEGI CAI; FM springs and sways; Bilstein HD shocks with FCM 36mm bump-stops; 37mm Koyo dual-core radiator; Hard Dog rollbar; Simpson 6-pt harness systems for driver and passenger; A-pillar dual-pod with boost and oil temp gauges; Audiovox CC-100 cruise control operated via Mazda steering wheel stalk.  Here's a video link of the car in action at a Laguna Seca HPDE http://miata-website.rdopso.com/Videos/Laguna%20Seca%202009%20clip.wmv .

This wonderful MSM now belongs to Apexeater who is enjoying running it on the four Phoenix-area road racing tracks at least as much as I did.
'95MSM
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Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


WWW
« Reply #12 on: May 22, 2008, 12:07:11 AM »

I've set the boost warning light to 16 psi and have adjusted the brightness of the alarm LED.  I thought about the features controlled through the push button and decided I didn't need yet another switch (alarm programming, headlight retractor, wideband programming, Link "save" switch, 7 psi max boost) under the dash.

I'll buy a real oil pressure idiot light switch and wire it to the engine warning light or put a red LED in the "ceiling" of the cluster facia.

This really isn't that hard to do.  The time consuming part is modifying the gauge cup to fit the cluster and put the gauge in the right location, and you can do that work away from the car.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
'95MSM
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


WWW
« Reply #13 on: May 22, 2008, 01:55:05 AM »

I just got back from my first test drive - the Speedhut gauge doesn't react nearly as quickly as my cheap Equus mechanical. 

I haven't had time to sort out the various boost factors on the Link since I added an external spring to the wastegate.  The Equus would display the 12 to 14 psi cycling that I'm currently seeing.  The Speedhut doesn't.  The connection to the intake manifold hasn't changed.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
emexfive
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 4576



« Reply #14 on: May 22, 2008, 02:49:06 AM »

I had a Westach gauge with basically no damping, it was always wiggling around and it made annoying rattling noises. The Speedhut seems a little sluggish compared to my Autometer, but in the same ball park.
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Black mica 05, Full FM DP/exhaust, BEGI CAI intake and FMIC, Hydra, 550 injects, Wilwood/Racing Brake big brakes, 16" Volk TE37s with 225/40 T1-Rs. Ohlins DFV coilovers, etc, etc...
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