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Mazdaspeed Archive => FAQ and How To(In Progress) => Topic started by: BenB on September 21, 2014, 12:02:55 PM



Title: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: BenB on September 21, 2014, 12:02:55 PM
Here's a quick write-up on replacing the troublesome boost control solenoid with an aftermarket valve from Asco. This is based on posts others have made in other parts of the forum but I thought I'd do this to get all of the info into one spot. This is basically what you get if you order BEGi's bog fix, minus the Deutsch connector. For comparison purposes, I've got about $70 invested in this project.

Parts list:
Asco part #411L3212HV Miniature Solenoid Valve 3-Way from Valworx.com
2 x 10-32 barb fittings for 1/8 ID hose from Amazon
2 x male spade connectors
1/8 ID hose
1 x  clamp from local hardware store

You could also use some 90 degree fittings from www.mcmaster.com (Part #2844K73).  The vent hole from the valve is on the opposite end of the valve, between the wires.

Here's the problem valve, which lives under a gold-colored bracket between the coolant overflow tank and a fuse box:
(http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/album618/Asco_2.jpg)

Parts. The only spade connectors I could find were the crimp-on type, but I soldered them.
(http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/album618/Asco_1.jpg)

I used a nut that holds another part to the bracket to mount the Asco valve. BEGi has you use the nut you see just outboard of the one I used, but on my car, the valve pressed against a wiring harness that runs underneath, and I didn't want to chafe any wires. Others have drilled holes in the gold bracket and mounted the valve near the OEM location.
(http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/album618/Asco_3.jpg)

I zip-tied the female end of the connector to the bracket (1). Solenoid 2 has a nipple that sticks down through a hole in the bracket and hose 3 plugs into it. Hose 4 runs to the intake manifold. It doesn't seem to matter which opening on the valve is used for the two hoses. The vent opening in the valve is located between the two wires, on the opposite end of the valve.
(http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/album618/Asco_4a.jpg)

The set-up seems to work well. No bog issues at all since I've done the swap. Comments/corrections are welcome.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: joeereid on September 22, 2014, 12:07:36 AM
sweet! looks nice & tidy


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: n.sears on January 06, 2015, 03:13:57 AM
I think my solenoid has died.  It was throwing a p0106 code and upon removal and test check with a 9 volt, I do not hear the classic click.  So I'm up for a replacement.  One question, are you running a stock ecu and if so are you throwing any codes with this.  Thanks.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: BenB on January 06, 2015, 04:11:04 PM
Yes, I'm running the stock ECU. I never did get a CEL when the car bogged.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: BenB on January 06, 2015, 07:26:06 PM
Since I can't edit my previous reply: No CELs after replacing the solenoid, either.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: Fantasticmaxx on January 08, 2015, 03:29:22 AM
nsears, I was in the same boat as you. had the p0106 code, and did not hear a click. did this upgrade and have been good ever since.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: n.sears on March 06, 2015, 01:59:32 AM
Just a tip for everyone looking to avoid a huge headache.  The solenoid does have an intake and exhaust side.  On the type of solenoid used here, the openings should be marked with a 1 and 2.  1 goes to the intake side. 2 goes to the boost sensor side.  If you are running a higher psi, failure to do this with cause boost cut and hesitation under boost.  It took me weeks to figure this out as I had done a timing belt at the same time and thought I messed up my timing.  Runs great now.  It's worth the small amount of time and money to get rid of that factory solenoid.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: sprite63 on March 06, 2015, 07:25:59 PM
I picked up the parts for the fix. Did you have any issues fitting the barbs? I can't seem to get mine to fit tightly and concerned I'll strip the plastic threads...


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: BenB on March 08, 2015, 11:29:31 AM
Just a tip for everyone looking to avoid a huge headache.  The solenoid does have an intake and exhaust side.  On the type of solenoid used here, the openings should be marked with a 1 and 2.  1 goes to the intake side. 2 goes to the boost sensor side.  If you are running a higher psi, failure to do this with cause boost cut and hesitation under boost.  It took me weeks to figure this out as I had done a timing belt at the same time and thought I messed up my timing.  Runs great now.  It's worth the small amount of time and money to get rid of that factory solenoid.


Wow, I totally missed that on mine! It has the ports marked with a blocky Roman I and II, so they looked like just part of the plastic end cap. Thanks for catching that. I'll try to find time to pull mine off and take a picture to post here.

Sprite63, I didn't have any problems with the barbs on mine. They seemed to match the threads in the valve just fine and are still tight after 6 months.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: DaveB on March 12, 2015, 04:37:05 PM

(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/cvtVSN.jpg)

(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/5HODzX.jpg)

I - Normally closed port goes to the intake
II - Normally open port goes to the Pressure sensor


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: Teamgym on March 13, 2015, 02:14:24 PM
Did you all buy the unit from Valworx.com? And how long time was delivery?
I probably will try to get one ordered when I go to Florida in May for vacation as all the companies I've e-mailed so far isn't willing to ship to Sweden :(


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: DaveB on March 13, 2015, 02:22:17 PM
I bought it from Valworx.com - 3 weeks in my case - the valve was out of stock

Use shipito.com mail forwarding service(big advantage and saving - you can ask remove invoice and fill in a custom declaration your  :))


Did you all buy the unit from Valworx.com? And how long time was delivery?
I probably will try to get one ordered when I go to Florida in May for vacation as all the companies I've e-mailed so far isn't willing to ship to Sweden :(


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: RedMSM04 on March 13, 2015, 02:36:04 PM
This might be an ignorant question, but why not simply replace with an OEM part? Is the thinking this aftermarket unit will NOT have the same issues as the Mazda part in the long run?


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: DaveB on March 13, 2015, 03:04:39 PM
Industrial grade valve from very reputable manufacturer has a chance will be better than oem valve with long failure history.


This might be an ignorant question, but why not simply replace with an OEM part? Is the thinking this aftermarket unit will NOT have the same issues as the Mazda part in the long run?


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: BenB on March 15, 2015, 08:28:46 PM
Thanks for posting the photos, Dave. I wasn't able to get photos because family happened. The I and II look like just part of the molding, if you don't know what to look for. Of course, there is also the 1 and 2 on the Asco sticker that I didn't see, either. Time for stronger reading glasses.   :(

I got mine from Valveworks in about two weeks. 


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: MSMzer04 on March 20, 2015, 10:18:10 PM
I ordered the parts for this... one thing left out is the gauge, I believe you are using 14-16 gauge on your picture for the male spade connectors.

Just a quick note, the actual gauge of the wire is: 24AWG

Since both wires are black, which one goes to positive and which one goes to ground?

Wouldn't I and II be reversed if + and - are reversed as well?


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: DaveB on March 20, 2015, 10:32:33 PM
Since both wires are black, which one goes to positive and which one goes to ground?
Wouldn't I and II be reversed if + and - are reversed as well?

Polarity does not matter in the solenoid valves :)

You cannot reverse the ports: they still are normally closed and Normally open and the polarite reverse does not change it.
I - Normally closed port goes to the intake
II - Normally open port goes to the Pressure sensor


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: MSMzer04 on March 20, 2015, 11:09:12 PM
 :)

Thanks for clearing that up for me, I hope I'm not the only dummy that had that question lol


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: 5speedMS on July 08, 2015, 03:41:13 AM
So glad others have done this since I posted my how to  :mrgreen:


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: svetki on July 08, 2015, 06:47:38 PM
Noticed my oem made a couple clicking noises while it was idling with the hood up. 

Is this a sign its going bad or needs cleaning? 

Have not had any bogs, but rather replace than clean if it is on its way out.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: SilverMiataRacer on July 08, 2015, 06:54:53 PM
You sure it was the "bog" solenoid that clicked and not the solenoid for the charcoal canister?  The bog solenoid is the bigger one that is almost under the edge of the fender.


Title: Re: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit
Post by: TheBigChill on July 16, 2015, 01:49:05 PM
Bumping this from the dead.

Ok- everything here is easy and self-explanatory except: Why are you guys using a Valve rated for 24VDC, when our electrical system is 12VDC (most likely regulated down to 10VDC or so)?

I would assume that applying 12VDC or less to this 24VDC coil, means you're under-driving the solenoid (providing full voltage should cause faster valve response and less oscillation).

I don't want to overthink this, but this doesn't quite add up to me.

EDIT:     Nevermind.  The valve supplier site was confusing, as they stated its voltage rating as 24VDC, even for the 411L3212HV part#.  411L3212HV dsignates 12VDC.  A quick look at their part# designation cleared this up.  Carry on :)

PS:  McMaster Carr carries these valves, too.  Just at almost twice the price...   http://www.mcmaster.com/#miniature-solenoid-valves/=y2scvy