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Author Topic: Flasher Relay wiring diagram  (Read 8258 times)
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1320 Right Ln.
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« on: May 21, 2008, 10:44:55 PM »

Does anybody have one available?  instead of wiring resistors across the turn signals for LED bulbs, I wanted to see how hard it would be to install a standard no-load flasher relay in place of the Mazda one.  If this cannot be done, does anyone know what resistance value needs to be used across the turn signal bulbs leads?
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Sin-Tek
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« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2008, 11:54:43 PM »

we use pg-3 flashers from hotronics and they work great.   we made light kits for two of our silverado's our tahoe and a vette. they work like a charm.
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I'm no mechanic, but.....
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« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2008, 12:28:29 AM »

those seem similar to the no-load relay I already have.  Based on the picture, it looks like just a simple input and output w/ground.  The issue I see with the Mazda relay and harness is that the connector has about 6 or 7 wires going into it.  My mulitmeter is on the fritz so I can't tell which wire does what.  I might just get another multimeter and figure it out myself later.  If all else fails then I can just measure the resistance across the stock bulb filament and find a matching resistor at Radio Shack. 

The adjustable one from hotronics seems like it could be cool though.
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Sin-Tek
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« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2008, 04:50:31 PM »

6 or 7?  thats alot.   are you sure you pulled the flasher relay?     

here is the page on the relay and what each pin does.  its from my 2000 miata service manual, but i dont think they would have changed the relay, or maybe they have and thats why you are seeing more pins now.  i haven't looked at the one from my msm.    hope it helps since your meter is not working

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I'm no mechanic, but.....
Full FM intake/GFB VTA/FM MBC/O2 modifier  -  Stance GR+ Coilovers  -  Kosei K1 TS wheels  -  HDHCDD Rollbar  -
1320 Right Ln.
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« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2008, 07:21:50 PM »

thanks, that's the same diagram I had used before I bought the no-load relay.  Unfortunately it looks like Mazda did change the relay at some point.  I confirmed it was the correct one though... easy to tell since squeezing the sides changed the pitch of the clicking noise but had no effect on the other relays... then I unplugged that one and the turn signals didn't work.

I got a short work day today so I'll just buy another meter and report back on my findings.
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« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2008, 12:05:30 PM »

Replaced the multimeter, but things aren't looking up.  Resistance of the bulb filament is only 1.5 Ohms... so I went to Radioshack and bought a pair of 1 Ohm 10 Watt resistors.  I plugged it in, and presto, the lights flash just like they're supposed to.  The only problem was that the resistors got so hot in the process that the started to smoke.  I used an IR temp gun and read 290.  Wiring both resistors in parallel to share the load still resulted in smoke.  I then put the standard filament bulb in and measured an even higher 300 degrees. 

Abandoning the resistor method, I mapped out the wiring for the relay.  I got it all figured out, but then my no-load flasher wasn't working correctly.  *sigh*  perhaps it's best to just use the standard filament type bulbs in white color.
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« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2008, 06:23:00 PM »

 How many led's are on the circut?   also are they 12.v led's or 2.5v or something else?
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I'm no mechanic, but.....
Full FM intake/GFB VTA/FM MBC/O2 modifier  -  Stance GR+ Coilovers  -  Kosei K1 TS wheels  -  HDHCDD Rollbar  -
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« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2008, 07:15:30 PM »

There is one bulb (with about 12 LEDS)on both the left and right sides, with standard bulbs in the rear.

I'm pretty sure they're made for 12V systems since they were built to fit an 1157 socket, and you can see small resistors in the housing.

Maybe I can find 1 Ohm resistors in a higher wattage capacity as well as some sort of heat sink.  They're fine if you leave the turn signal on for less than 30 seconds or so... which seems long enough, but feels like it's a band-aid fix.
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« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2008, 08:13:48 PM »

There is one bulb (with about 12 LEDS)on both the left and right sides, with standard bulbs in the rear.

I'm pretty sure they're made for 12V systems since they were built to fit an 1157 socket, and you can see small resistors in the housing.

Maybe I can find 1 Ohm resistors in a higher wattage capacity as well as some sort of heat sink.  They're fine if you leave the turn signal on for less than 30 seconds or so... which seems long enough, but feels like it's a band-aid fix.

ok.  i was thinking that you made your own led grid for the light and wired it in together with more resistors...

you bought the pre wired led bulb cluster. so yeah if its made to fit into the bulb socket then its 12v.  in that case you will need a lot more than 1watt.   so with 12v@1.5A is more like 18watts@8ohms  just go get a 8ohm@25watt load resistor. iirc radioshack has them cause i use to use them in speakers and the only place we had was radioshack, so try there first. if you are in socal i can recommend a couple really good electronic parts stores.  anyway, the resistors are going to look like a little white ceramic block about 2 inches long.  that should put your load back to where it was with the bulb.
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I'm no mechanic, but.....
Full FM intake/GFB VTA/FM MBC/O2 modifier  -  Stance GR+ Coilovers  -  Kosei K1 TS wheels  -  HDHCDD Rollbar  -
1320 Right Ln.
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Posts: 83


« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2008, 09:31:19 PM »

my local radioshack has a 10 Ohm 25 Watt Ceramic cased resistor.  I'll give that one a try.  Thanks!
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