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Author Topic: Presenting '90MSM!  (Read 179318 times)
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mr_hyde
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Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #330 on: April 17, 2014, 06:44:05 AM »

Any details on the water pressure light?  I have thought about installing another LED in the gauge cluster for water pressure. 

I got a basic warning light from Summit/Jegs or one of the usual online subjects.  It is wired hot from the dash cluster and a ground lead goes to the engine compartment to the switch.  It came with a pressure switch for the water pressure that is normally closed and takes just a pound or two to open.  I bought an oil pressure switch to match and ran them in parallel.  If either the water or oil pressure goes away, the light comes on.  The light is right in the middle of the cluster eclipsing the other (non functional) idiot lights so you would want to find a better solution in an MSM.

I hadn't thought of a pressure switch for the water before until I noticed all the 949 team cars had them when I was at the 25hr race with them.  I asked William why and he said simply that alarms/idiot lights for the pressure of the two fluids was critical.  If you suddenly lost pressure due to a burst hose (external oil coolers have hoses too) or punctured heat exchanger and the alarm went off, you would have a chance to save the motor.  If you waited to notice gauges displaying extreme values (if you happened to notice) or heard strange noises, the engine was toast.  He recalled two motors that had been saved in race situations with these.

Is the splitter set level to the ground when the car is not moving or angled slightly down?  My thought is the wing would have more downforce than the front and push the rear downward at speed.  I have mine set as level as I can, but I also have the large dive planes.  Car felt very planted with this arrangement.

The splitter is more level now and has a slight downward rake despite being slightly higher at the leading edge than it was last year.  I don't have a doctorate in computational fluid dynamics so I can't argue with the engineers about the merits of flat splitters but my common sense approach tells me that on a production car without a flat underbody or engineered ground effects, you want to keep as much air out from under the car as possible and have a slight downward rake to the splitter.  Having it perfectly flat just seems to increase the volume of air that hits the subframe and builds up under the car.  I take very few cues from NASCAR but what we do is closer to what they do than what F1 does.

The car has never felt as planted as it did last week and I saw a lot of sustained 1.3 and 1.4gs on the data.  This is on NT-01s and not having what I would call an aggressive alignment.  I was burying the needle at 140mph indicated (133gps verified) and had no hint of wander or float.  I don't have significantly more power than last year so the drag can't be hurting me much.  The exit off the last corner must be faster since the best I could get on the GPS last year was 129mph.  I will look at dive planes later in the summer after everything else is sorted.   afro
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
millsj
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« Reply #331 on: April 17, 2014, 12:06:38 PM »

Thanks for the water info.  I'll have to do some thinking on how I might could run a water pressure light.  It doesn't sound like it would be hard to install other than it would be in the cluster and finding a location to install a pressure stitch in the system.  Where did you install the water switch?

Makes sense with the splitter.  I have mine set at 3" from the ground.  I agree that lower is better, but I also have to be practical.  Lower is more dangerous in the event of an off and I don't want 30' ramps.   laugh I have 5' extensions and that is long enough for me.  Do you know how low yours is set? 
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #332 on: April 17, 2014, 12:29:16 PM »

Where did you install the water switch?

I used a unit like this on the Subie when I needed to add a sender for the water temp.  Should work okay for the pressure switch too

http://prosportgauges.com/water-temp-sender-radiator-hose-adaptor.aspx

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Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
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Okibi
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« Reply #333 on: April 17, 2014, 04:33:24 PM »

This is what I use on my cars http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/parts/wsensoradapter.htm
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« Reply #334 on: April 17, 2014, 05:47:36 PM »


Do you know what the price is in US dollars? I tried converting the 8,640¥ to dollars and got $1389 which can't be right lol.
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RIP #361 05' Black Mica Mazdaspeed mx-5, swap in progress to 1999 Miata Base. Follow my build thread here: http://tinyurl.com/pwtx3f9
SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #335 on: April 17, 2014, 05:52:45 PM »


Do you know what the price is in US dollars? I tried converting the 8,640¥ to dollars and got $1389 which can't be right lol.

According to the currency calculator I use it's 84.3519 USD
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Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway
Okibi
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« Reply #336 on: April 18, 2014, 02:46:09 AM »

I know Bill at MiataRoadster.com sells Maruha parts and he's an awesome guy to deal with.
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"It could get wrecked, stolen, scratched, breathed on wrong... a pigeon could sh*t on it! Who knows?"
mr_hyde
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« Reply #337 on: April 18, 2014, 07:51:33 AM »

My water switch is in my reroute adapter plate but the in-hose unit would be fine if you attach the ground strap.  Here is the the idiot light.  I cleared out 4 OEM idiot lights to make room but it will get my attention in any circumstance. 



Aluminum Kirkey seat has greatly improved driving position.


New oil cooler mounted in place of the second fan.


Glowshift sandwich plate with bungs for the oil pressure switch and oil temperature.  The temp sender is on the way to the cooler and the pressure switch is on the way back from the cooler.  If I lose an oil line, the pressure light will go off a second or two before the sump goes dry.  I can't recall how the BP motor is plumbed but putting the pressure switch closest to the most likely point of failure makes sense to me.   afro


The cooler is just mounted to the bungs on the radiator where the fans would normally mount.  The sandwich plate doesn't have a t-stat so the cooler located behind the radiator will help it come to temperature and not overcool.  I wouldn't run a street car like this but it will work fine on '90MSM.


My splitter is ~3" off the ground but I need to verify that when I get the new one put together.
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
Lokiel
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« Reply #338 on: April 18, 2014, 10:40:44 AM »

Any chance of those oil cooler lines "sawing" through your swaybar?

Consider sheathing them with split loom if it's even remotely possible (I'm paranoid about stainless steel hoses after seeing photos of one that sawed through an intercooler pipe).
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Ti Aussie "SE" (cannot be called "MazdaSpeed" here, "speed/performance" badging encourages reckless driving apparently), DIY AutoTune MS3-Pro ECU, Borg-Warner EFR6258, NitroDann custom manifold+3"exhaust+CAI, Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, GM D514A CNPs, 83.5mm coated CP pistons, K1 rods, Fab9 350HP intercooler,  ported Squaretop Intake Manifold, Skunk2 Throttle Body, ATi Super Damper, '95MSM SpeedHut Boost Gauge Mod, GREDDY Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat, Setrab Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Series coilovers (8/6kg), 1.125" Racing Beat Tubular Sway Bar + Al Braces, 949racing SuperMiata end links, Carbing 3-pt shock tower brace, Nickel 6UL 15x8s, Toyo R1Rs 225/45/15, Wilwood Front BBK, SS Brake Lines, FM Frame Rails, Boss Frog "Frog Arms", MX5 Plus Twin Hoop Roll Bar, MiataRoadster long-angled SSK, Piano-Black Voodoo Knob&HandBrake, Innovate MTX-L Wideband O2 gauge+sensor, Lotus Probax seats + lots of "goes faster" chrome bling (since chrome reflects light, less of the colour spectrum is absorbed, making the car lighter - "pseudo-science" Smiley ).
Build Thread: http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=41091
mr_hyde
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« Reply #339 on: April 19, 2014, 05:00:15 AM »

They have pretty good clearance despite how the pictures look but I am planning to wrap them too.  I usually use scraps of old radiator hose and a few zip ties when something might make contact.
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
mr_hyde
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Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #340 on: June 02, 2014, 05:39:22 AM »

It turns out the new splitter is 2.5" off the ground but car was hooked up on Thursday at a track day in Portland.  I cut over 4 seconds off my personal best which was pre-aero from 2 years ago.  Here is the fast lap. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O--SAMrmyM  There is at LEAST another second in the car at my driving skill and probably another 3 for a hot shoe.  I dropped between .5 and 1 second each session all day as I re-learned the track and learned to trust the freakish grip a functioning splitter, airdam and wing provides. 

The new oil cooler location worked great.  We were at a ~70 degree ambient and the oil temps stayed below 210 all day even when really pushing it.

I did a few things since last time out I will mention since this is the minutia of a build thread:

1.  As mentioned, this was a new splitter made out of birch ply instead of fir so it was much stiffer.  I also redid the air dam and mouth for the heat exchangers.  The opening is around 30% smaller now.  Water temps were up slightly but now they are running around 200* instead of sitting on the thermostat.  The smaller opening also provides better downforce so this is the tradeoff - smallest opening possible to still give adequate cooling.  I may rig up a sliding opening I can adjust to the ambient temps.  We see some days in the 50s and I've been out in 90* before.  The 200* water and 210* oil I consider to be perfect for flatout on the track.   afro

2.  I installed a rear brace for the Kirkey seat.  It really firms up the seat and makes it even more stable.  They are also required in most CCRs so it was a good investment from multiple angles.

3.  I was doing my annual front bearing repack and one of the bearing keepers finally gave up and shattered.  How a piece of plastic has survived this long in those conditions is beyond me!   shockeyes  Anyway, I got a set of ebay hubs and packed them with good Amsoil grease.  They worked great and I'll take a closer look at them after a few more days on the track.

4.  New rotors (Napa - did you know they give a 10% discount to AAA members?) and XP12 fronts.  The last set of pads had some taper wear.  I'm going to try to flip them this time.  I really thing a BBK would be a good investment this year.  These calipers are going to need rescuing soon anyway.  They have been on fire more times than disco.

5.  I added a fire bottle to the center console.  Also recommended (required?) by most TT organizations and after the dipstick popping out at >130mph, I thought it might be nice to put out my own fires (not related to brakes).

6.  The catch can system that was allowing the crankcase to pressurize and pop the dipstick was scrapped.  I got a larger can with a larger vent/filter and capped the PCV nipple on the intake manifold.  The intake side cam vent went through a PCV and then directly into the can.  I thought about a gutted PCV but was told oil would slosh out under heavy cornering so I went with the functioning valve even though none of the catch can system is under vacuum.  Regardless, the oil tube didn't move an inch, the catch can didn't accumulate anything and I used perhaps 2 or 3 cups of oil during 6 hard sessions.  I arrived full and didn't feel the need to add any all day.  Both straights on this track had heavy use of the Porsche button which currently yields ~17psi.  This issue is officially resolved... until the boost gets turned up higher with the new turbo.   angel1

A preview of things in the on-deck circle:

I picked up a transponder from a shop that builds and rebuilds various race cars and need to install it before the next time trial.

I got a set of LE/R package tie rod ends.  That, plus a shim of the steering rack should help the bump steer a bunch.

For the next alignment (post tie rod upgrade), I have a new set of OEM alignment bolts.

The BNR style turbo upgrade.

I have a set of 3.9 gears from an early RX7 that need to go in.  I'm pretty certain, they will be a nice upgrade on the local track I run most often and will make it possible for the car to run Pacific Raceways that is now even faster  shockeyes with a new surface on the back third of the track.  The 4.10s would have me on the rev limiter for around 2 full seconds which is not how I like to balance the car through T1 when the speedo has gone past 6 o'clock and is getting ready for its morning coffee. 
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
millsj
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« Reply #341 on: June 02, 2014, 04:29:16 PM »

Sounds like a very good track weekend.  2.5" is getting pretty low and no problem as long as you keep it on the track.  Cheesy
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
sfcarbone
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« Reply #342 on: June 02, 2014, 05:20:31 PM »

Don't flip the brake pads after they have a lot of taper, that is a bad idea.  Sure, you might get a little more life out of them, but your brakes will only have a fraction of the contact patch until they wear in properly.  You will likely have one bad session of brakes and another one where you are re-learning your brake markers and trusting them again.  I've done it myself and would never do again.

I will concede that flipping them each session BEFORE they develop bad taper might be cost effective and not mess with the braking ability, but have to question the time PIA/benefit.

Steve
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mr_hyde
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Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #343 on: June 10, 2014, 01:15:15 AM »

A preview of things in the on-deck circle:

I picked up a transponder from a shop that builds and rebuilds various race cars and need to install it before the next time trial.

I got a set of LE/R package tie rod ends.  That, plus a shim of the steering rack should help the bump steer a bunch. Done

For the next alignment (post tie rod upgrade), I have a new set of OEM alignment bolts. Done

The BNR style turbo upgrade.

I have a set of 3.9 gears from an early RX7 that need to go in. Done

My buddy Bob killed his 4th 6 speed two weeks ago which blew his budget for the NASA weekend.  I skipped it too so I haven't got the transponder done yet but some of the other nice bits are ready to roll!  I'll see how they shake out Thursday.   afro
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
joeereid
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #344 on: June 10, 2014, 02:13:13 AM »

Did you get the 3.9 gears in?
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
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