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Author Topic: E-Bay Intercooler Install-Lots of Pics  (Read 14764 times)
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millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« on: December 27, 2011, 04:13:49 PM »

There are a number of choices for aftermarket intercoolers for the MSM.  I chose a cheap E-Bay delta fin cooler that was around $65 shipped.  Itís measurements are 27x7x2.5.

Below is a step by step in how to install the intercooler. There are a lot of steps, but itís not all that difficult.  I didnít know what I was doing when I installed mine, but several write-ups and lots of pictures helped me.  Hope this helps someone down the road.

Part 1.
The first step in installing an intercooler is to remove the front bumper.  Jack the front of the car up and support it with jack stands.  Go ahead and remove the front tires while you are at it.  It will make things easier as you go along.  I would also recommend taking lots of pictures as you go along so you will have something to refer back to if you get confused putting everything back together.  I would also recommend putting your screws in zip lock bags and labeling them.  Itís easy to forget which screws go in what holes.  cheesy

1.   Remove these 4 bolts


2.   Remove all the screws and plastic tabs that hold the wheel well liner in place.  The plastic screws unscrew, but you may need to pry them out as you unscrew with a pick or small screwdriver.




3.   Remove this bolt and you should be able to remove the finder liner.


4.   Unscrew this screw.  Steps 2-4 will have to be done to each side.


5.   On the underside of the bumper, remove all of these screws on both sides of the car.


6.   Remove the bolt and plastic screw in the nose of the car where the existing intercooler is mounted (each side).  Look in the nose of the car and up and you will find these.




7.   Remove all the screws and clips that hold this part of the plastic undertray in place.  **If I remember correctly, this part does not fit back on once the intercooler is installed.**


8.   Remove the wiring harness that attached to the fog lights.


9.   There are two more clips that hold the bumper in place just forward of the screw that you took off in step 4.  If I remember correctly, you have to squeeze a plastic tab on either side of this connector and push it back through the hole.  For me, this was the hardest connector to get off.  Some have said to just pull hard, but I was afraid I would break something.

10.   The bumper should be free to come off at this point.


This is the point where your wife or significant other comes into the garage and asks what your have done to the car.    Shocked
Part 2 coming soon.......
Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2011, 05:24:16 PM »

Part 2.

The next part of the install involves marking where the hard pipes need to be cut, removing the old intercooler, cutting the pipes, installing the new intercooler, making brackets and finally reinstalling the bumper. 

1.   You will need to mark where the hard pipes on either side of the existing intercooler need to be cut since the new intercooler is much wider than the OEM one.  I marked the center of each intercooler and lined up the two center points with the OEM intercooler installed.  This way, I knew that the new intercooler was centered when I went to mark the pipes.  Here is a picture after the OEM intercooler was removed, but you can see what I did.


2.   I marked the pipes with painterís tape and made sure I drew an arrow to the side of the tape that needed to be cut.  Measure twice since you only get one shot at this.  Give yourself ľ-1/2Ē inch gap on either side to give yourself a little wiggle room, which helps getting the new intercooler in place. 

3.   Remove these 2 spring clamps. You will remove the intercooler at this location.  You may need to push a screw driver between the rubber coupling and hard pipe to loosen it.


4.   Do the same on this side


5.   I found that it was easier completely remove the hard pipe on the driverís side.  It is easier to cut when it is off the car.  Remove spring clamp where the pipe is running vertical.  You can see how I marked where the pipe needs to be cut with an arrow pointing the side that needs to be cut.


6.   Remove this bolt and remove the pipe



7.   I donít remember how the intercooler is bolted to the car, but I think these are the bolts that hold it in place on the bottom.


8.   You will have to look and see if there are any brackets on the top.  I think there are but donít remember where.

9.   Remove the intercooler

10.   I used a portable band saw to cut the hard pipe that was removed.  I was able to cut about half the passenger side pipe with the same saw, but then had to use a hack saw for the remaining cut.  A sawzall will also work. 

11.   Stuff some a rag or something similar into the passenger side prior to making the cut.  You donít want the engine ingesting the metal shavings.  Here is a picture after the passengerís side pipe has been cut.


12.   Reattach the driverís side pipe, but make sure to clean any metal shavings.

13.   A floor jack works well for holding your new intercooler in place while you reattach the pipes to it.  Get your new couplers and T-bolts and mount the new intercooler.


14.   Now you will need to make some brackets to hold the intercooler in place.  Some people have skipped this step and some have put brackets on the top and bottom.  I chose to only install brackets on the top.  Here is a picture of one of them installed.  The top of the bracket uses a factory threaded hole, so that part is easy.


15.   The horn uses the passenger side mounting point and the horn bracket is in the way.


16.   Here is the bracket that I used.  I got some scrap metal, put it in a vice and bent it with a hammer. 


17.   I attached the horn to the passenger side bracket.


18.   Both brackets mounted.


19.   Reattach bumper in reverse order of part one and job finished! Nothing to it.   thumup

Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
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