Mazda-speed.com
October 29, 2020, 08:45:17 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Mazda-speed.com is no longer open and is now a read-only site. For Mazdaspeed Miata discussions, please visit the Mazdaspeed section on Miata.net.
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: 1 ... 9 10 [11]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: The duel purpose street/track car...the 4 year (and counting) build.  (Read 83338 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #150 on: November 11, 2014, 08:20:16 PM »

The following is a little drawn out, but might help others who have run into similar problems. 

I havenít made any great modifications on the MSM recently, but the car hasnít been neglected.  In fact, the car has seen a lot of attention (far too much attention for my liking).  Unfortunately, I have been chasing my tail trying to fix issues related to the exhaust manifold and turbo.  We all know that the nuts on the exhaust manifold are known to loosen over time.  Specifically, the ones closest to the fire wall.  We also know that the studs are prone to snap.  Prior to the last track event, I had a stud snap while torquing the manifold nuts.

Removing broken studs in not my specialty, so I had a shop replace all the studs in the manifold.  When the car was put back together, 4 bolts were used in the turbo/exhaust manifold connection.  OEM, there are 2 studs and 2 bolts.  The studs are closest to the head. 

Fast forward to the track event.  During the first day, I noticed that the turbo spool seemed a little louder than normal.  When I finally decided to check it out, I found that 3 of the 4 bolts that attach the turbo to the manifold has backed about half way out and there was a huge exhaust leak.  I also found a couple of the manifold nuts had loosened.  Re-torquing the turbo/manifold bolts did not stop the leak and we were shut down for the weekend.  I'm not talking about a small leak after it was all tight.

Below is the gasket, or what is left of it.  I did find the other corner, but lost if by the time the picture was taken.  With both sides blown out, itís not hard to see why there was a huge leak.


Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #151 on: November 11, 2014, 08:22:41 PM »

Now how to fix this mess.  Remember me saying that in the OEM configuration, there are 2 studs and two bolts in the turbo?  The problem is that you canít replace the gasket without separating the manifold and turbo.  The studs are in the way.  The second problem is that I donít think you can separate the two in place.  The turbo angles toward the manifold and it wonít slide off.  The only option is to pull the turbo.  Yuck!

Luckily for me, I had 4 bolts in the turbo.  I was able to easily unbolt the turbo/manifold, slide and new gasket in place and bolt it all back together.  Easy enoughÖ.problem solved.  WRONG!!!   banghead  I torqued everything to spec.  The turbo/manifold connection was fixed, but I still had a leak at the head.  The torque spec is something like 25-35 ft lbs.  I went to 45 ft lbs and it was still leaking.  Obviously, something was wrong.

Time to pull it all apart.  Somewhere in this process, I found that I could get the manifold off with all the turbo/manifold bolts removed and the top manifold studs removed.  The bottom studs can remain in the head and the manifold will rotate off.  

With the manifold on the bench, it was obvious that it was warped.  



At least that explains the leak.  Off to the machine shop to be resurfaced.  By this time, I was tired of working on this project and decided that I didnít want to deal with it again.  

Now that you know the background, this is what I did to hopefully prevent this issue from ever happening again.

All the studs went back in with Resbond (red) on the threads.  Think of it as a very high temperature Loctite.  McMaster Carr is the cheapest place to buy the stuff and it isnít cheap.  Item number 7604A56 and $40 for a 4 oz bottle.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3432/=ujv4r7

I wanted to go back with 4 studs in the turbo/manifold connection, but that wasnít possible without removing the turbo.  Itís easy to install studs in the connections closest to the fender.  The problem with the connections closest to the head is that you canít get a wrench on the nuts.  The bolts need a 10mm wrench.  The nuts I wanted to use require a 13mm wrench.  There isnít enough room between the manifold and the nut to get a wrench on it.  

I also went with Inconel studs in the turbo.  Nissan uses these studs in their turbos.

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts/nissan-stud-manifold~14414-17f00.html

The 300Z studs and Resbond is a combination that is known to work and verified by Mr_Hyde.  You will have to run a die over the threads for a turn or two to make them screw all the way into the turbo.

« Last Edit: November 11, 2014, 08:25:07 PM by millsj » Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #152 on: November 11, 2014, 08:30:09 PM »

Now to figure out how to keep all the nuts from loosening.  I decided to go with Stage 8 locking fasteners.

http://www.stage8.com/perfauto.html

If you arenít familiar with these, itís a clever design that makes it impossible for a nut to back off.  

Unfortunately, they don't fit perfectly on our car.  I have a total of 11 of these fasteners on the manifold and turbo and all but 2 of them required modification of the tear dropped part or some minor grinding on the manifold.  Here is a close up of a Stage 8 fastener and you can see that I had to modify the tear dropped part.



Also remember that 5 of the manifold nuts are on the bottom of the manifold, so you are working one handed and with a mirror.  This is only a job for someone with small hands and LOTS of patience.  8 of the 9 manifold nuts have the Stage 8 fasteners on them.  I ran out of energy on one of the bottom ones.  It was going to take a good bit of time with a die grinder working via a mirror.  I threw in the towel and called it good enough.

There are Stage 8 fasteners on the two turbo inlet studs, but as I said earlier, the Stage 8 nuts donít work on the back of the turbo.  I decided to go with FMís locking washers with the bolts.  



http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4524&parentid=0&stocknumber=36-30300

Some additional information:
The exhaust manifold studs are M10 x 1.25
The turbo/manifold studs are M8 x 1.25
The exhaust manifold gasket is installed with the shiny side toward the head.



A little tip regarding the Stage 8 fasteners.  You will drop the retaining clips into the depths of the motor no matter how careful you are.  After I retrieved all the clips I had dropped (which is only possible with the manifold out), I decided to tie a 3í-4í piece of fishing line around the clip before I even tried to install it.  They are much easier to pull out of the motor with string attached.

Here is everything finished right before I covered it all back up with the heat shields.   Sad



The car is yet to see the track for the ultimate test, but that will happen on Friday.  Hopefully, I will never have to mess with the part of the car again.

« Last Edit: November 11, 2014, 08:37:35 PM by millsj » Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
mr_hyde
Global Moderator
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 7213


Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #153 on: November 12, 2014, 09:11:37 AM »

Removing broken studs in not my specialty, so I had a shop replace all the studs in the manifold.  When the car was put back together, 4 bolts were used in the turbo/exhaust manifold connection.  OEM, there are 2 studs and 2 bolts.  The studs are closest to the head.

Point of order:  I believe OEM has 4 studs.  The two closest to the block come up from the turbo and the two closest to the shock tower go down from the manifold.  All of these studs (including the manifold studs out of the head and the downpipe studs out of the turbo make the turbo/manifold/downpipe assembly a complete nightmare to R&R.  Throw in a fragile drain line from the turbo and I'm twitching just thinking about it!   buck2
Logged

2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #154 on: November 12, 2014, 01:47:47 PM »

SMR has a spare turbo that has never been installed and it only had 2 studs in it.  But now that you mention it, the other two studs would have been installed in the manifold.  My brain wasn't thinking straight.  help
Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
04TitaniumGrayPhilly
Forceful Driver
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2933


Soviet Stig


WWW
« Reply #155 on: November 12, 2014, 03:18:39 PM »

I love this car! Wish I was as creative and could make my own aero stuff. That wing is really cool too, is it removable like the lip? Sorry, haven't really been following along, just checking occasionally.
Logged

2004 Mazdaspeed Miata #2373 - 328whp and 308wtq/ 2500lbs
ARTech, EFR6258, XIDA, Maxxis RC-1, 3.63 R&P
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #156 on: November 12, 2014, 03:55:36 PM »

Everything is removable.  In street clothing, it looks stock other than the lower ride height, roll bar and racing seats. 
Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #157 on: November 30, 2014, 01:15:39 AM »

After my broken hub incident, I have focusing on upgrading parts before they fail.  I am running the 1.125" RB front sway bar and the OEM sway bar mounting points has been known to crack.  I figured some reinforcements in this area couldn't hurt. I installed the RB reinforcing blocks.



After the track event next weekend, I plan on replacing the both rear bearings and hubs.  All of those are original and have seen many thousand track miles. 
Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
joeereid
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 1156



« Reply #158 on: November 30, 2014, 02:59:47 AM »

After my broken hub incident, I have focusing on upgrading parts before they fail.  I am running the 1.125" RB front sway bar and the OEM sway bar mounting points has been known to crack.  I figured some reinforcements in this area couldn't hurt. I installed the RB reinforcing blocks.



After the track event next weekend, I plan on replacing the both rear bearings and hubs.  All of those are original and have seen many thousand track miles. 
Those were fun to install weren't they...
Logged

05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #159 on: November 30, 2014, 04:08:47 AM »

It wasn't too bad, but let's just say that it wouldn't take as long if I was doing it again.   Cheesy  I did think it would be a quick install, but as normal, not as I had hoped.
Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
humming
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 1447


enginerd


« Reply #160 on: December 01, 2014, 04:24:01 AM »

Commenting on your November 11 post about the stud and turbo connection problems: resbond is the stuff! -300F to 2100F. I use it all the time at work. Made by Cotronics.
Logged

2005 Lava Orange MSM #394
FM Intake Kit, FMIC, HKS SSQV VTA BOV(ABC 123 R2D2), Humming Aero Pedals, Speedhut boost gauge, Humming Aero front Tow Hook, Hard Dog HCM2SD, Koyo Radiator, Spal Fans in custom shroud, Joeereid intake heat shield, Humming Aero Hood Vent, ebay catless DP.
StackSilverson
Fourth Gear
****
Posts: 395


I'm loving this car.


« Reply #161 on: December 21, 2014, 06:15:54 AM »

Awesome thread awesome car.  I love how it can goe from slick looking daily driver to a pure racecar and back again.

Super impressive.  Great job man.
Logged

2014 Acura ILX Dynamic- 6 Speed, A Peppy DD
MSM #2452- Velocity Red Mica
Engine Mods- 700cc Deatschwerks Fuel Injectors, Hydra 2.7 ECU, FM Front Mount Intercooler, FM Intake, FM Throttle Body Inlet Pipe, FM Dowpipe, FM Midpipe and Exhaust, TurboSmart Boost Controller, TurboSmart BOV
Drivetrain Mods- FM Level 1 Clutch, FM Level 1 Flywheel, FM SS Clutch Line, Corksport 3.63 Ring and Pinion
Audio/Electronics Mods- GROM Audio Adaptor, Cobra SPX5500 Hardwired Radar Detector, USB Charging Adapter
Suspension/Wheel/Tire Mods- TEIN Street Advance Coilovers, Advanti Storm S2s, Dunlop Direzza DZ102s
Brakes - Porterfield Carbon Pads
Safety - Harddog Hardcore M2 Double Diagonal Rollbar
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #162 on: December 22, 2014, 02:58:27 AM »

Thanks.  It's an ongoing work in progress.
Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #163 on: April 30, 2015, 09:12:29 PM »

I forgot that I have not updated this thread to include the intake box.  For a complete discussion and details of it's construction, see this link starting with reply #73.

http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,27753.60.html



And with some additional insulation.


Intake temps were lowered by about 10 degrees, but I have some ideas to improve the design.  I'll update as there is more to tell.

Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
Pages: 1 ... 9 10 [11]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

Copyright © 2007-2016, Eunos Communications LLC