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Author Topic: The duel purpose street/track car...the 4 year (and counting) build.  (Read 83041 times)
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millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #45 on: February 14, 2012, 10:13:09 PM »

The roll bar installation made it easier to mount a camera. 

I attached an exhaust hanger to the top of the roll bar with some rubber between the hanger and the bar.  I then bent some scrap metal and drilled a couple holes in it.  I used wing nuts to attach the set-up to the exhaust hanger and attached a small tripod head to it.  I found a small tripod for under $10 at Target and removed the head from it.  This set-up has worked well for a couple of years.  Here is a picture of the mount that I have been using with the roll bar.  The exhaust hanger has been moved, but you get the idea.





I have recently gotten a GoPro Hero2 camera, which caused me to change mounts.  Here is a pic of the new mount.





I moved the exhaust hanger to the harness bar and flipped it upside down.  I then made a metal plate out of some scrap.  I used a sawzall to cut this plate out, so it is functional, not pretty.  I then use the GoPro suction cup mount attached to the plate.  I know GoPro has roll bar mounts and I may go to one of those eventually, but this mount was free.  I am sure I will do further experimenting with the mount, but I will stick with this rig until for a while.

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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #46 on: February 14, 2012, 10:26:44 PM »

I have always been the analytical type and  I have been eyeing the lap timers and data acquisition systems.  I have admired the Traqmate system with video overlay for a long time, but it is cost prohibitive.  One weekend at the track, I was talking to a fellow driver and he mentioned that he used a lap timer that basically told you everything the Traqmate did and he was able to put it all together for under $150.  He had my attention!!

He sent me a link all the items that were needed and shortly thereafter, I was ordering parts. 

You will need a Nokia E61 or E61i smartphone, an external GPS and RaceChrono Software. I donít have service on the phone, so itís only purpose in life is a lap timer.  I thought about a duel purpose phone, but a ringing phone mid-session is not a good idea.   shocked  I then bought a 10hz external GPS that connects to the phone via Bluetooth.  You can use the phoneís internal GPS, but the refresh rate is too slow to work well at the track or autocross.  The RaceChrono is free software that you have to load onto the phone.

Here is a link to the GPS:
http://semsons-co-inc.amazonwebstore.com/BTQ818XT-Qstarz-BTQ818XT-Bluetooth-GPS-Receiver/M/B000N763WE.htm


and the link to the software
http://www.racechrono.com

The phone acts as a lap timer showing current lap times, fastest lap time of the session and if you are faster or slower at each predetermined segment-green screen for faster and red screen for slower.  For a few seconds, it will also tell you how much faster or slower you are at each segment marker.  You can either create your own track or you can download tracks from their track library.  The downloadable tracks are already set up in segments, so all you have to do is turn it on and hit the track.

Here are a couple of pics that show what the lap timer displays when you are faster or slower.


Green screen for faster and the amount of time you are faster


Red screen for slower and the amount of time you are slower

With video editing software, you can go back and overlay the data on the video.  You do have to do this manually, but you get what you pay for.

Here is a print screen showing the final product and a link to the full video with the overlaid data.


Link to video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KK3cxAVe7QY&feature=email

I have gotten so used to driving with the lap timer, I feel lost without it.  I love the fact that I can instantly tell if I am driving fast or slow.  Many times you feel fast, but you have no idea if you are really going faster.  The timer doesnít lie.  I also really like the segment times.  I can glance down and if I am faster on a particular lap, then I might continue pushing.  If I am slower, then I may just work on my line or try a slightly different line and see if I gain or loose time. 

My wife and I have also gone back and compared speeds at different spots on the track.  We run similar lap times, but our speeds vary depending on the where we are on track.  It is interesting and helpful to see where each of us can carry more speed. 
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
magnus
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Analog enthusiast


« Reply #47 on: February 14, 2012, 10:45:37 PM »

Thanks for that post on the GoPro mount, according to UPS my Hero2 is sitting on my doormat along with an external mic. It looks like you've got one feeding into your camera?
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2004 VRM #3081 - San Francisco
1988 BMW M3
2000 Integra Type R
millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #48 on: February 15, 2012, 08:54:43 PM »

I did try running an external mic at the last track event.  I ran the mic to the trunk, but my results were less than exciting.  On the up side, there was no wind noise.  On the down side, the only real noise that I got was rocks hitting the wheel wells.  Keep in mind that I had the OEM exhaust at the time.  I also only got sound out of the left side when playing it back.  However, I think this is due to the ancient mic that I was using.  I am going to get a newer one and try it again. 

See the following posts for details on the wires that I have connected to the camera.
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #49 on: February 15, 2012, 08:58:34 PM »

My only complaint with this set-up is that with the car being co-driven, I have to charge the phone battery during the day.  To eliminate this issue, I have installed a cigarette lighter with continuous power in the glove box.  With the current set up, anytime the phone is plugged in, it will be charging.  I can always pull the plug if I donít want it to charge.  I am on a quest to make the electronic gadgets in the car more user friendly. 

Below is a pic of the cigarette lighter outlet that I ran to the glove box.  You can see them mounted to the left side of the glove box.  I have this outlet powered all the time.


This set-up worked great at the last track event.  I could leave the phone on all the time and never needed to take it out to charge it.  Mission accomplished!   Smiley
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
Maduh
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« Reply #50 on: February 15, 2012, 09:15:11 PM »

You know GoPro makes a rollbar mount for like $20 right?  afro
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RIP #361 05' Black Mica Mazdaspeed mx-5, swap in progress to 1999 Miata Base. Follow my build thread here: http://tinyurl.com/pwtx3f9
millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #51 on: February 15, 2012, 09:20:11 PM »

I have also added a remote button to turn the GoPro camera on and off.  This simple addition is one of the best additions I have made related to video. There is a setting that starts the camera recording as soon as it is turned on.  This button allows me to start and stop recording at any time, even when I am fully strapped in the car with harnesses and a helmet. 

In the past, I would start recording when I fired up the car and headed to the track and stop recording when I got back to the pit.  The problem is that you end up with several minutes at the beginning and end of each video that eats up valuable memory card space.  I now drive out to the hot pits and wait for the signal to head on track.  As soon as the signal is given, I push the button and start recording.  After the checkered flag, I can turn the camera off on the cool down lap.  I would also recommend the 32 GB SD card.   Here is a close-up picture of the power cord and the remote control wire connected to the camera.



Here is a pic of the button installed.  It is just a momentary switch from Radio Shack.


The button arrangement isnít hard, but it does require making two tiny solders.  More details can be found here:
http://goprouser.freeforums.org/hero2-bus-interface-is-different-to-hero1-t4950.html

My final addition to the camera is continuous power.  Any cell phone charger with a mini-USB connection will charge the GoPro2.  I connected a cigarette lighter outlet directly to the battery and zip-tied it to the roll bar. 



As is with the lap timer, no more charging batteries during the course of the weekend.   I couldn't be more happy with the new camera set-up.  dancenana
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #52 on: February 15, 2012, 09:24:56 PM »

Yea, I know GoPro makes a mount.  I made the mount for the suction cup attachment one weekend when I was borrowing a GoPro from a friend.  He didn't have the roll bar mount either.  I wasn't sure if I was going to like the camera enough to buy one, so I just made this mount up in a few minutes.

Now that I have been using it, I like the fast that I am able to move the camera about 6" farther forward than it would with the roll bar mount.  I am afraid I would get a lot of the back of the seats in the video with the roll bar mount.  I may buy one at some point, but so far so good.

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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
tvp
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Posts: 25


« Reply #53 on: February 15, 2012, 10:54:28 PM »

Cameras : There is a great little HD camera  on the market that we use in our Top Alcohol Dragster

The Make is Re Play XD ....... google it, it will record 1 hr HD with micro SD card it comes with or you can put a bigger chip in , it also has a special mic for loud automotive use ( Great for track )

But what is great are the size and mounts , you can mount it anywere.......plus very very light,

It has gone 270 MPH no problem in 5.25 sec.....

http://replayxd.com/product/replay-xd-video-camera-system/


Cheers

Dave
CF-55

« Last Edit: February 15, 2012, 10:57:08 PM by tvp » Logged
millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #54 on: June 14, 2012, 09:14:17 PM »

I have been meaning to update this thread on the latest car projects, but have not found the time.  I will say that all the mods up to date have been working flawlessly.  The remote camera switch and the continuous power to all the electronic track toys have been been working great and have made life a lot easier at the track.

Since I last left you, the first mod that I did was the full FM exhaust/downpipe.  I did not get a lot of pics of the install since I was working off of jackstands.  The under side of the car was too close to get any pics.  Here are a couple of pics when the car was up on the trailer.  It's almost too pretty to by under the car.  Smiley





The car has noticeably faster spool and an extra kick in the seat of your pants.  I am also a fan of the exhaust note.  I don't like a loud exhaust and this is about perfect for me.  Not too loud, but louder than stock.  At the track, I am a couple mph faster down the straight, so I know the power is not just a placebo effect. 
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #55 on: June 14, 2012, 09:20:22 PM »

Next up was moving the Hallman Boost Controller from under the hood and into the cabin.  I thought it would be neat to replace the cigarette lighter plug with the controller.  I will say that it took some patience to get it all positioned correctly and route the cable through the dash and under the hood.








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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #56 on: June 14, 2012, 09:27:10 PM »

Finally, my coolest mod to date.   Grin

I made a cool shirt cooler that mounts in the trunk.  Since the cooler is in the trunk, I made a switch in the cabin of the car so I can turn it on and off from the driver's seat.  









The complete details of the cool shirt DIY are here:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,26243.0.html

As I said in the DIY, if you track the car anywhere in the south or where the temps are warm, you will want one of these.  Once you have driven with cold water circulating through your shirt, you will wonder how you ever drove with out it.

This gets me up to date, but I have more mod plans in the near future.  Does it ever end!?   help
« Last Edit: June 14, 2012, 09:29:46 PM by millsj » Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
millsj
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #57 on: August 06, 2012, 01:10:43 PM »

Well, I've been back at the mods this past week.  The car has had a lot of cooling mods (crossflow radiator/Spal fans and oil cooler), one person cooling mod (cool shirt), so that pretty much only leaves one last cooling mod-brake ducts.  My wife and I are heading back to a braking intensive track next month, so I figure it can't hurt to do all I can to keep the brakes cool.  Hopefully, the pads and bearings will hold up better with some fresh cool air.  While I had the hubs off, I took the opportunity to re-grease the hub that has not already been replaced with good high temp grease.

I bought the Trackspeed Engineering brake duct kit and sacrificed the fog lights for the intake.  The TSE ducts are well constructed and are easy to install.  I don't really see how they could be improved upon.  afro  Fabbing up the parts to make the hose work with the fog light opening took some time, but would go a lot quicker a second time around.

Everything seems to be holding together while driving around town, but next month it will get a real test at the track.  I'll post up a parts list and more install details in the FAQ section, but here are a couple of pics.







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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
rstange1
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Posts: 637



« Reply #58 on: August 06, 2012, 04:30:24 PM »

I thoroughly enjoy this thread -- thanks so much for posting! afro
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'05 Ti MSM with: Flyin' Miata Downpipe, Midpipe, Exhaust | Hydra 2.7 ECU w/KO Racing tune | Deatschwerks 700cc Injectors | Turbosmart Manual Boost Controller | BEGi Cool Air Intake, Intercooler, Throttle Inlet | Forge Bypass Valve | FCM Elite Coilovers | Racing Beat 1.125" Tubular Front Sway Bar | Whiteline Endlinks | Enkei 15x8 PF01s | Hankook 225/45 R-S3s | Hard Dog HCHTDD Roll Bar | MiataRoadster Short Shift Kit | Audiovox Cruise Control | Sylfex AuxMod | VDO Boost Gauge | ScanGauge II | BlendMount | Cocomats
millsj
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #59 on: August 06, 2012, 05:26:24 PM »

You are welcome and there will be more to come.  The thread is up to date as the car currently sits, but the credit card may get some more exercise tonight.   cheesy
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
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