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Author Topic: FM Crossflow Radiator and Spal Fan Install  (Read 8035 times)
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millsj
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2575



« on: December 29, 2011, 06:52:58 PM »

The radiator and fan installation was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be.  This was my first radiator install.

Here is the new radiator in all it's glory.


And with the fans attached.


Undo this bolt on each side.


Remove the upper radiator hose.  I forgot to circle that you also remove it at the thermostat.


Remove the overflow hose


If you have the FM intake, remove this part of the piping.


Loosen this nut so the piping is free to move.


Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator.

Pull out the radiator.


New fans vs. old fans.  Just a little difference.


Move the two rubber feet from the old radiator to the new one.  You will have to cut out part of the foot on one side because this is the drain for the radiator.  I think it is the driver's side.


Seal around the fan shroud and radiator.  Use metal foil tape, which can be purchased at Lowes or HD


Remove the bolt on the passenger side that holds the condenser to the bracket.  You will need to slightly bend this bracket toward the front of the car.  A hammer works well.   cheesy  Re-attach the condenser.


Set the radiator in place and connect the upper radiator hose that is supplied from FM.


If you ever need to replace the hose, this is the one that fits.


Reconnect the lower radiator hose.  The PS? lines run VERY close to the lower radiator hose inlet.  If you tilt the top of the radiator toward the rear of the car, you will free up some space and make it a lot easier to install the hose clamp.  This is why you should install this hose prior to installing the brackets on top of the radiator.




Now you can install the upper radiator brackets and the radiator part is complete

I also had an issue with part of the intake piping hitting the radiator fill cap and the the intake piping not aligning back the same as prior to the install.  You can see the misalignment here.




No big deal and is actually helpful since I had to rotate/adjust the intake piping to try to get if away from the fill cap.

If you loosen the hose clamps and make the following adjustments, then it is much better.

1.  I moved/rotated this pipe away from the filler cap.

2.  I moved the OEM hose spring hose clamp and black hose to the left.  I also had to rotate the clamp a little so the cap did not hit the part of the clamp that you squeeze.  I still had problems with the hose clamp pushing pretty hard against the filler part of the radiator and I was afraid it would wear through the filler.

3.  I loosened this hose clamp and pushed the black hose further up the "FM pipe".  That final adjustment seems to keep the hose clamp in #2 better with the filler.  They still touch, but not hard.

That wraps up the radiator install....not on to the fans. afro

You will do this on both the driver's side and passenger side.

Cut off the OEM wiring harness connector.




Install connectors onto the appropriate wires-refer to Spal directions


Connect to Spal fans and secure the wires.


The hood prop will now run across the filler cap.  You will need to do some  "customizing" to make it fit.  I took it off and put it in a vise and bent it.  It took some trial and error, but easy enough.


That should wrap it up.  The final step is to fill the radiator back up and take a drive.   afro

« Last Edit: December 29, 2011, 06:54:31 PM by millsj » Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
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