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bigx5murf
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« on: December 31, 2011, 03:28:26 AM » |
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I was hooning it and heard a real un-nerving sound, turns out the studs for my rear sway bar bracket got snapped off the rear sub frame. I had just installed the 949 adjustable endlinks about 100 miles ago. I guess I must've adjusted them wrong, I had it about 3/4" shorter than stock endlinks. Car is 12.5" rear and 11.75" front. The 949 endlinks were only installed in the rear. I'm going to hold off installing the front until I know what I did wrong so I don't repeat this.   |
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Woofster
I love humanity. It's people I can't stand!
Fifth Gear
Posts: 4758
2005 MSM Ti #1255
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« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2011, 04:21:20 AM » |
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Those endlinks are mighty sturdy and certainly compared to the stock ones. I've used them on the front of my car for a couple years with a 1.25" tubular bar and NEVER had an issue. Maybe you preloaded the bar to tight (some feel there shouldn't be any when the car's off the ground)?
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Hydra Nemesis; 550 injectors; Flying Miata Full Intake Kit w/MBC (MAFless) & GFB recirculating bypass valve; Flying Miata DP; Flying Miata Full Exhaust; FMIC 28X7X2.5; Fat Cat Motorsports Elites (single adjustable) 800/500; Racing Beat 1.25" Tubular Front Sway bar w/Brace Kit and Gearheads Gauge Adjustable endlinks; OEM 14mm rear sway bar; FM Frame Rails; HDHCDDHT Rollbar; Hard Dog Harness Bar; G-Force 6-Point Pull-Down Camlock Harness; Ultrashield Rally Sport Seat; Energy Suspension Diff Bushings; Carbotech XP10/XP8 Brake Pads; Stainless Steel Brake Lines; 15X9 6ULS (Nickel) & BF Goodrich g-Force Rival (225/45/15) street; 15X9 6ULS (Nickel) & Hoosier A6 (275/35/15) track; 15X9 6ULS (Nickel) & Hoosier H2O (225/45/15) wet track; Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge; Thompson Nautilus Air Horn; Mobile 1 0W-30; Redline MT90; Redline 75W90; BEL-tronics Pro RX65. 1/20/08 190.06 HP @ 178.36 Max Torque (Need a new Dyno run because this is inaccurate with current mods!)
"Racing...is life! Everything that happens before and after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen in Le Mans
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bigx5murf
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« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2011, 04:25:33 AM » |
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I had the endlinks adjusted to shortest they'll go while still being able to lock em. Doesn't shorter take out pre-load?
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SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2011, 05:38:29 AM » |
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Actually you might have made them too short. If you get droop on one side and no droop on the other and the endlink is adjusted short I would think it's possible to be pulling down on the bar and break off the mount when it doesn't want to go. Then again it's late and I'm tired so I might be wrong.
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Larry 4 Miatas but who's counting!!  White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 SM2 FM I+ Turbo (Gone but not forgotten) Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45 Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5 #403 of 4000 Subie 2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten) No name yet 2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette No Name yet 2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE “There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.” – Ernest Hemingway |
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bigx5murf
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« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2011, 06:10:29 AM » |
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Well, I couldn't find any guides on proper endlink adjustment. I just used my floor jack to raise up the LCA, then set it so that rear sway was parallel to the LCA. What's the correct way to adjust endlink?
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Lokiel
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« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2011, 07:09:42 AM » |
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^
I put the car on stands, lie under the centre (front or rear), reach the endlinks (one per hand) and tighten (or loosen) them by spinning their shafts just tight enough so that there is only the faintest sway bar load on both of them, then I tighten the lock nuts onto the shaft. It's easy to do it this way since you can quickly feel if you need to tighten or loosen either of the endlink shafts and can "feel" that they're both loaded the same.
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« Last Edit: December 31, 2011, 07:14:53 AM by Lokiel »
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Ti Aussie "SE" (cannot be called "MazdaSpeed" here, "speed/performance" badging encourages reckless driving apparently), DIY AutoTune MS3-Pro ECU, Borg-Warner EFR6258, NitroDann custom manifold+3"exhaust+CAI, Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, GM D514A CNPs, 83.5mm coated CP pistons, K1 rods, Fab9 350HP intercooler, ported Squaretop Intake Manifold, Skunk2 Throttle Body, ATi Super Damper, '95MSM SpeedHut Boost Gauge Mod, GREDDY Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat, Setrab Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Series coilovers (8/6kg), 1.125" Racing Beat Tubular Sway Bar + Al Braces, 949racing SuperMiata end links, Carbing 3-pt shock tower brace, Nickel 6UL 15x8s, Toyo R1Rs 225/45/15, Wilwood Front BBK, SS Brake Lines, FM Frame Rails, Boss Frog "Frog Arms", MX5 Plus Twin Hoop Roll Bar, MiataRoadster long-angled SSK, Piano-Black Voodoo Knob&HandBrake, Innovate MTX-L Wideband O2 gauge+sensor, Lotus Probax seats + lots of "goes faster" chrome bling (since chrome reflects light, less of the colour spectrum is absorbed, making the car lighter - "pseudo-science"  ). Build Thread: http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=41091 |
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bigx5murf
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« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2011, 06:03:07 PM » |
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But won't the bar load up once you lower the car doing it this way?
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newold_m
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« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2011, 10:03:17 PM » |
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better to do it with the car on ramps or crawl underneath so the suspension is properly loaded.
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'04 MSM: sold
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Lokiel
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« Reply #8 on: January 01, 2012, 02:09:30 AM » |
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better to do it with the car on ramps or crawl underneath so the suspension is properly loaded.
- redone now using ramps to put some load on the bar! |
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« Last Edit: January 01, 2012, 02:10:57 AM by Lokiel »
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Ti Aussie "SE" (cannot be called "MazdaSpeed" here, "speed/performance" badging encourages reckless driving apparently), DIY AutoTune MS3-Pro ECU, Borg-Warner EFR6258, NitroDann custom manifold+3"exhaust+CAI, Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, GM D514A CNPs, 83.5mm coated CP pistons, K1 rods, Fab9 350HP intercooler, ported Squaretop Intake Manifold, Skunk2 Throttle Body, ATi Super Damper, '95MSM SpeedHut Boost Gauge Mod, GREDDY Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat, Setrab Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Series coilovers (8/6kg), 1.125" Racing Beat Tubular Sway Bar + Al Braces, 949racing SuperMiata end links, Carbing 3-pt shock tower brace, Nickel 6UL 15x8s, Toyo R1Rs 225/45/15, Wilwood Front BBK, SS Brake Lines, FM Frame Rails, Boss Frog "Frog Arms", MX5 Plus Twin Hoop Roll Bar, MiataRoadster long-angled SSK, Piano-Black Voodoo Knob&HandBrake, Innovate MTX-L Wideband O2 gauge+sensor, Lotus Probax seats + lots of "goes faster" chrome bling (since chrome reflects light, less of the colour spectrum is absorbed, making the car lighter - "pseudo-science" ). Build Thread: http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=41091 |
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bigx5murf
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« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2012, 04:08:34 AM » |
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So how do you guys recommend repairing this? Weld on new studs, or drill it out and use some grade8 or grade 10 bolts to hold the bracket?
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SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #10 on: January 01, 2012, 05:11:15 AM » |
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I'd drill it and use bolts and nuts
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Larry 4 Miatas but who's counting!! White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 SM2 FM I+ Turbo (Gone but not forgotten) Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45 Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5 #403 of 4000 Subie 2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten) No name yet 2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette No Name yet 2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE “There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.” – Ernest Hemingway |
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Scotty
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« Reply #11 on: January 01, 2012, 08:08:48 AM » |
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^ Use bolts and nuts.
You might be able to hammer the broken stud out with a punch, but I couldn't.
I'm on my third year with a bolt/nut setup for one of mine with no issues.
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'04 VR GT #1656-- Turbochargers.com 15T compressor wheel upgrade, Hydra v2.6 w/wideband, BEGi reflash for the stock ECU & LC-1 wideband, 450cc injectors, GC coilovers (425F/300R w/FM MCU bumpstops) on Tokico Illuminas, RE-11s on O.Z. Ultraleggeras, FM swaybars, Powergrid end links, FM full recirculating intake, FM intercooler, FM exhaust w/downpipe, FM Crossflow radiator, Hard Dog center-braced Deuce, 3.636:1 R&P, ES poly diff mounts, Mazda comp motor mounts, MiataRoadster SSK, Wilwood BBK w/XP8s all around, Speedhut boost and wideband gauges, GFB G-Force II EBC, Datatool revlite...
...and a new long block from Mazda at 19k miles
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SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #12 on: January 01, 2012, 05:12:57 PM » |
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I had broken a stud for the rear mount on one of my NAs. I had to drill it out from the backside and then used a nut and bolt and it's been on there for about 15 years now.
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Larry 4 Miatas but who's counting!! White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 SM2 FM I+ Turbo (Gone but not forgotten) Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45 Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5 #403 of 4000 Subie 2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten) No name yet 2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette No Name yet 2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE “There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.” – Ernest Hemingway |
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bigx5murf
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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2012, 03:43:27 AM » |
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Drilled out and replaced with bolts today. Hopefully the other side holds.
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Tobra
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« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2016, 08:11:05 PM » |
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I guess this is not a super common problem, but I had one break too. Better to drill from back of the car to front or front of car to back, or maybe it does not matter.
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“If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower.”
Mark Donahue
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