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Author Topic: Stainless Steel Brake Line Installation  (Read 5395 times)
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millsj
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2575



« on: January 04, 2012, 08:44:06 PM »

Installing Stainless Steel brake lines is a fairly easy task.  Keep in mind that you will spill brake fluid and you will need to bleed the brakes once you have replaced all the lines.  Brake fluid also does a great job of eating paint, so be careful.

Both front brakes and the driver's side rear are all basically the same.

Remove this banjo fitting (bottom yellow circle attached to the caliper) at which point you start leaking fluid.  Use a 10mm flair wrench and undo the flair nut (yellow circle at top).  There will be a clip (at the red arrow) that will slide off with a flat screw driver.


Install the new brake line in the reverse order in which you took the original one off.  Be sure not to cross thread any of the parts.

The rear driver's side is just a little different because the clip is in a little different location.  The steps are the same, but the clip is a little harder to remove.  It is located at the red arrow, but on the back side.


The rear passenger's side is different.  Remove the banjo fitting at the caliper and then remove the two flair nuts (circled in yellow).  You will then unbolt the junction block (circled in red) and remove from car.


Reverse order to install the new parts.

Once you are finished installing the new lines, bleed the brakes and you are all done.  Don't forget to admire the new look.   Smiley


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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
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