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Author Topic: Shock Installation  (Read 5298 times)
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millsj
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2575



« on: January 04, 2012, 09:56:25 PM »

Shocks are not terribly difficult to replace, but you will need a range of larger sockets and a long breaker bar.  I would start in the rear since they are easier.

***I would highly recommend spraying all of the bolts with PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil a couple of days prior to even trying to get them loose.  ***

A very brief overview of the rear:  You will disconnect the rear sway bar, remove the two nuts on the top of the shock and remove the lower shock bolt.  The old shock is free to be removed.  Install the new shock and reverse order.  Don't forget to transfer the thin clear plastic piece that is sandwiched between the to top of the shock and the body of the car to the new shock.

Disconnect the sway bar at this location.  You will need an allen wrench and wrench to unscrew the endlink.  


Rear sway bar loose.


Remove the two nuts that are at the top of the shock.


If you are working on the driver's side, you will need to remove the metal panel that is protecting the fuel filler hose.  Make sure you do not drop any of the nuts once they are loose.

Remove the lower shock bolt


You will also need to remove the ABS bracket, but I do not have a picture of it.  It should be obvious when you try to remove the shock.

You should now be able to remove the shock.  It is easier to pull the bottom loose first and then feed it out.

Reverse order to install the new shock.  Do not re-torque the bolts until the car is loaded on the suspension because you will pre-load it.  I would just snug everything up and they pull the car up on ramps to tighten everything down.  If that is not possible, then I would use a floor jack to "load" the suspension and then re-torque.

Now to the front.  You are following the same basic procedure as the rear, but there are a few more steps and a few more bolts to remove. You will remove the nuts on top of the shock, disconnect the sway bar, remove the upper control arm bolt, remove the lower shock bolt, remove shock, install new shock and reverse order.  You will also need to remove the plastic undertray.

Remove these nuts on top of the shocks.  You may have to remove some of the intake system to get to these nuts.  You do with the FM intake.


Disconnect the sway bar.


Disconnect the sway bar bracket.  It will need to be removed in order to get the long bolt out of the upper control arm.


Disconnect the bottom shock bolt.


And the other side of the lower shock bolt.


Remove the upper control arm bolt or slide it out enough the free up the upper control arm.


Here is a pic with a wrench on both sides.  I needed a long breaker bar to get this bolt free.


Undo ABS bracket.


Remove shock and transfer the clear plastic thingy from the top of the old shock to the new one.

Reinstall the new shock and reverse order to re-install.  I found it easier to use the floor jack to help hold everything in place to get the upper control arm re-installed.


You ABS braket will no longer have anywhere to bolt to, but you can zip-tie it to the shock.


Everything back in place.


Hope this helps.  As I said, it's not hard, but don't be rushed and you should have no problems. afro



« Last Edit: January 04, 2012, 10:12:52 PM by millsj » Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
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