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Author Topic: Exhaust Leak **pics** apparently common  (Read 45027 times)
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Canyonfive
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« on: October 27, 2012, 06:36:51 AM »



Really?  shocked the bolt by number 4 was so loose i could move it by hand......   shockeyes

I have seen other threads where this has happened. not sure if its just number 4 going through a greater heat/cooling cycle or what but it should be added to checks in regular intervals.

My next issue is fixing this has now caused a whistle. (think old toyota previa minivan) Im going to check the t45's that connect the output to the ic piping
« Last Edit: October 27, 2012, 06:38:21 AM by Canyonfive » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2012, 07:06:54 AM »

My next issue is fixing this has now caused a whistle. (think old toyota previa minivan) Im going to check the t45's that connect the output to the ic piping

Wow, that Previa reference seems a bit obscure.  OT but is there anything especially that's a common problem on Previas?  My wife has a '92 with somewhere over 300k miles, had it for about 2 months.  It's a RWD, naturally aspirated (S/C didn't come out till '93 IIRC) if that helps.
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« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2012, 08:26:38 AM »

Good preventative maintenance to put a socket on those from time to time.  With the heat shield off it just takes a minute.  9 nuts (deep 14mm with a short extension).
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Canyonfive
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« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2012, 08:46:11 AM »

Added video with sound http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hf3hQ0Jp6_c&feature=youtu.be
the sound occurs between seconds 6-9  while in boost

any ideas? I put a wrench on everything (except the bolts on the underside of the exhaust manifold) which i will do tomorrow.

Boost comes on 350 rpm sooner with a more aggressive rise. from 3500 it takes only 550 more rpms to peak boost vs 1000 before. So its better  help
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KingSpeed
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« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2012, 09:27:48 AM »



  That is good to hear.  Unfortunately I had the same exhaust leak you had but I taken off the manifold to put on my BNR turbo and layed the manifold down on a flat surface to find out it was slightly warped.
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« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2012, 02:10:04 PM »

millsj had that issue too.  Our mechanic loosened all the bolts and tightened them and I think he's been good for almost a year now.  The thing is if you let it leak too long you burn out the gasket and the manifold leaks.  Then it becomes a major repair.
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Canyonfive
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« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2012, 07:20:21 PM »

So i need to loosen them all not just tighten the rear?
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« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2012, 07:28:31 PM »

So i need to loosen them all not just tighten the rear?

He's suggesting you break them all loose and then re-torque to spec in the right pattern.  When you are done, start the car and immediately (before it gets hot) hold your bare hand right next to the area to feel for 'puffs'.
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
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CharlesE
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« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2012, 08:41:40 PM »

Dang!  I just checked my car....similar marks on at least 3 cylinders ..... visible with the heat shield still on. 

Quality time coming up.  And I need to add another item (these bolts) to the maintenance schedule, along with the bog solenoid, along with greasing the slider pins, along with cleaning the air filter, along with.....
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Canyonfive
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« Reply #9 on: October 27, 2012, 09:42:54 PM »



GO CHECK YOUR CARS.   really  shocked and im just another +1

Well that was the whistling sound folks. missing a stud  Cry  or  uglystupid2  

that also correlates with my 22 mpg. Bad fuel econ with nice driving. I used to get 26+ to almost 30 on hwy trips.
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« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2012, 09:49:06 PM »

Recall issue? Or regular wear and tear?

My dp has an exhaust leak. Thanks not something I should worry about huh?
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« Reply #11 on: October 27, 2012, 10:52:33 PM »

Recall issue? Or regular wear and tear?

Give Mazda a call.  The worst that will happen is this on the other end of the phone.

 2funny 2funny uglystupid2 idiot2  bsflag  rolleyes
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
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« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2012, 10:53:12 PM »

Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue. 

I noticed a tick on start up that went away within 45 seconds.  It definitely sounded like exhaust leak to me but it coincided with my eBay FMIC install ten days ago so I double checked all my couplers and mounting brackets.  Then I saw this thread and figured I'd take a look at the exhaust side. 

Here's the first thing I saw:


Sprayed on a little PBBlaster, set the torque-wrench to 30 ft-lbs and snugged it right up.
So far, so good.

Hit the bottom-rear stud and it sheared right off:

From the discoloration on the fracture I'd guess that it failed some time ago and just let go now altogether.

Time to break out the left-hand drill bits.
Access to this stud is nearly impossible with the manifold in place:

I was tempted to try to extract the broken stud without removing the manifold but I think to potential to really hose it up is pretty high.

So I guess I'm pulling the turbo and the manifold.  Thanks to the good folks here there is lots of good info on this job.

I have ordered a new set of 9 studs with copper washers and nuts and a turbo exhaust gasket from MiataRoadster and a set of oil-return gaskets from OnlineMazdaParts.
I'll be hitting Sears for the 10mm swivel and the magnets.

I'll post up results when I get the old stud removed.
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« Reply #13 on: October 29, 2012, 06:26:22 AM »

I'm wondering if they were torqued too tight at the factory.  When the parts expand numerous times the fastener stretches one last time and fails.

Just a theory. Smiley 
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« Reply #14 on: October 29, 2012, 12:19:20 PM »

Mine had this exact same issue.  Broken stud on the bottom and the top one was loose.  I simply loosened them all and retorqued them and haven't had any issues for about a year now.
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