Mazda-speed.com
October 18, 2021, 10:32:28 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Mazda-speed.com is no longer open and is now a read-only site. For Mazdaspeed Miata discussions, please visit the Mazdaspeed section on Miata.net.
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Exhaust Leak **pics** apparently common  (Read 105775 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
cargy2003
First Gear
*
Posts: 42


« Reply #195 on: July 26, 2016, 05:15:02 PM »

Hate to revive an old thread but I checked my exhaust manifold nuts today and found the top nut on #4 cylinder loose, just about 1 year after re-torquing to 30 ft-lb. This is the only one that has ever been loose. I know there has been lots of discussion about using copper lock nuts or Resbond, but would simply threading on a 2nd nut to be used as a "locking" nut work to keep this tight? Anybody have any experience? For now I just re-torqued to 32 ft-lb. I believe I would need an M10 x 1.25 grade 8 nut if I went this route. Thx.


Logged
hox
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 560



« Reply #196 on: July 26, 2016, 05:42:52 PM »

To do this right,  you should consider bolstering the OEM setup.   This will need to use either nord lock washers (Flyin miata sells the correct size) or use a Stage 8 fastener system.   TSE sells these:

http://www.trackspeedengineering.com/Stage-8-Locking-Nut-Kit.html   which do not have the inconnel studs included.   


Logged

2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
'95MSM
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


WWW
« Reply #197 on: July 27, 2016, 03:26:56 AM »

If there is thread showing past the OEM nut, I vote for adding a jam nut. Simple, cheap, should be very effective.
Logged

'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
mr_hyde
Global Moderator
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 7213


Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #198 on: July 27, 2016, 05:22:33 AM »

If there is thread showing past the OEM nut, I vote for adding a jam nut. Simple, cheap, should be very effective.

John had a lot of luck double-nutting this one.  It seems that ALL hard driven turbo miatas have this nut come loose to one degree or another...
Logged

2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
cargy2003
First Gear
*
Posts: 42


« Reply #199 on: July 27, 2016, 03:55:20 PM »

UPDATE: wow- I can't believe how quickly that nut comes loose! 2 days ago I retorqued to 32 ft-lb, and after a few runs, I found the nut with perhaps 5 to 10 ft-lb of tension. In the end, I decided to "belt + suspender" the damn thing. I found a local distributor of Nord-lock washers and purchased a few M10 Nord-lock washers and installed the nut with the new washer. There was enough exposed thread left on the stud that I then threaded on a second nut to act as a locking jam nut. Torqued both nuts to 34 ft-lbs. Hopefully this will cure this annoying problem. On the positive side, I can now remove the heat shield and J pipe in about 5 minutes. I suggest ALL MSM owners check these exhaust manifold nuts as they apparently loosen up in very short order.
Logged
Ex36
Third Gear
***
Posts: 167


« Reply #200 on: July 27, 2016, 04:09:14 PM »

This issue is a total Achilles heal, especially when the studs shear like in my case (and others).  It's about enough to make me dump the car.
Logged
hox
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 560



« Reply #201 on: July 27, 2016, 04:09:54 PM »

To the OP,   did you verify that the stud was not loose?    If it was tight, then please let us know in a follow up how the double nut/nord lock combo worked.
Logged

2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
'95MSM
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


WWW
« Reply #202 on: July 27, 2016, 04:14:27 PM »

This issue is a total Achilles heal, especially when the studs shear like in my case (and others).  It's about enough to make me dump the car.

Well, I hope you enjoy bicycling to work, as nearly every car ultimately has something similar.
Logged

'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
hox
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 560



« Reply #203 on: July 27, 2016, 04:46:40 PM »

 laugh
This issue is a total Achilles heal, especially when the studs shear like in my case (and others).  It's about enough to make me dump the car.

Well, I hope you enjoy bicycling to work, as nearly every car ultimately has something similar.
Logged

2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
cargy2003
First Gear
*
Posts: 42


« Reply #204 on: July 27, 2016, 08:27:06 PM »

Hox-the stud in question was intact and tight  - only the nut was loose. I also noticed when I completely removed the nut, that there is a very brass looking sheen on the machined land on the exhaust manifold, where the nut contacts the manifold. Does anyone know what type of cast alloy the exhaust manifold is made of? It almost looks like there is some copper or bronze in the casting. If this was the case it might help explain why the nuts / studs back off since the thermal expansion of the casting would likely be greater than the steel studs, allowing the stud  to back out. I will check the stud with the Nordlock washer and jam nut in a couple weeks and report results.

Logged
mr_hyde
Global Moderator
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 7213


Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #205 on: July 28, 2016, 01:41:42 AM »

I had a little leaking on the manifold for '90MSM so last time I took things apart, I took the manifold to the machine shop to flatten it out.  When I picked it up, the guy said, "Dude, what did you do to that manifold?!?!  It was .06" out!"

That said, they are pretty robust for what they are.  Mine gets hotter than most...  laugh
Logged

2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #206 on: July 28, 2016, 12:21:26 PM »

Quote
I had a little leaking on the manifold for '90MSM so last time I took things apart, I took the manifold to the machine shop to flatten it out.  When I picked it up, the guy said, "Dude, what did you do to that manifold?!?!  It was .06" out!"

I had a similar reaction from the machine shop after getting my manifold resurfaced.  I realized mine wasn't flat anymore when I couldn't get it to seal after replacing all the studs, gasket, etc.  This was mine.   shockeyes  Like Hyde, my car sees more abuse than most.


Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
msmny
Fourth Gear
****
Posts: 451

DD Toy :D


« Reply #207 on: July 28, 2016, 03:58:44 PM »

I had a little leaking on the manifold for '90MSM so last time I took things apart, I took the manifold to the machine shop to flatten it out.  When I picked it up, the guy said, "Dude, what did you do to that manifold?!?!  It was .06" out!"

That said, they are pretty robust for what they are.  Mine gets hotter than most...  laugh

.06"??  shockeyes What?? I checked mine last year, I think, or this spring, but I feel like going back to them and check
Logged

2004 MSMX-5 #437/4000: Few mods, more to come Cheesy
"It's not what you drive, it's how you drive it!"
Canyonfive
National Champion BSP
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 1661



WWW
« Reply #208 on: July 28, 2016, 08:18:11 PM »

To the OP,   did you verify that the stud was not loose?    If it was tight, then please let us know in a follow up how the double nut/nord lock combo worked.

OP? Lol.. I still just tighten mine. The engine is coming out after nats most likely to replace the stud. Ill probably just go with the solid copper nuts.
Logged

www.miataspeed.com My YouTube Channel
My BSP build thread
Ebay IC, Custome Koni 2812's by Guy Akney, FM Intake, FM DP, Hallman Pro Rx @ 10psi, GFB VTA BOV, Carbotech Brake Pads F/R, 15 X 10 Custom Wheels, Hooiser A7's,  Memory Fab/ lotus seats , Custom from sway bar , Muffler Delete, Hydra 2.7 EMS Launch Control Flat shift E85 , 550RC's, Fuel Lab fuel filter,
PK1
Third Gear
***
Posts: 186


« Reply #209 on: September 14, 2016, 02:57:43 AM »

Bringing back the already many-time-brought-back old thread:

Has anyone used a jam nut to see if it holds? Everything is snug on my car and I'm leaving it well alone, but I'm thinking maybe adding a jam nut to the exposed threads may be a good preventive measure?

If/when something gets loosed I'll fix it using the Miata Roadster kit, Nordlock and Resbond. For now, not looking to create a problem if one isn't there.
Logged

2005 VR MSM, #1254 of 1428
FM exhaust
Rest of FM LE kit + FM radiator and stage II fan in boxes awaiting installation
Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

Copyright 2007-2016, Eunos Communications LLC