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Author Topic: Exhaust Leak **pics** apparently common  (Read 45026 times)
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'95MSM
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #210 on: September 14, 2016, 05:06:13 AM »

There really isn't any risk to using jam nuts as far as a fix for loose nuts. The few that have reported loose studs are another story.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
Jake
First Gear
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Posts: 25


« Reply #211 on: September 14, 2016, 03:25:20 PM »

I had replied to another thread on this issue, commenting that I checked/re-torqued mine (all but one was loose).  That lasted all of 3 days, and the chirp/squeal at startup and tick till warm started again  angry9.  As it does not look like my studs are backing out and none are broken, I got some new ARP stover nuts and a set of NordLock washers from Amazon to replace everything this weekend.  I really don't want to have to pull the manifold and have it resurfaced...

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2005 LO MSM #462
Ex's: 2001 BRG SE #2718, 2004 VR MSM, 1996 Brilliant Black, 1991 Crystal White
PK1
Third Gear
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Posts: 186


« Reply #212 on: September 15, 2016, 02:31:17 AM »

There really isn't any risk to using jam nuts as far as a fix for loose nuts. The few that have reported loose studs are another story.

Agree.  Time will tell if it helps, but I can't see how it would hurt. I've ordered jam nuts, I'll put them on before putting things back together.
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2005 VR MSM, #1254 of 1428
FM exhaust
Rest of FM LE kit + FM radiator and stage II fan in boxes awaiting installation
PK1
Third Gear
***
Posts: 186


« Reply #213 on: September 15, 2016, 02:33:08 AM »

I had replied to another thread on this issue, commenting that I checked/re-torqued mine (all but one was loose).  That lasted all of 3 days, and the chirp/squeal at startup and tick till warm started again  angry9.  As it does not look like my studs are backing out and none are broken, I got some new ARP stover nuts and a set of NordLock washers from Amazon to replace everything this weekend.  I really don't want to have to pull the manifold and have it resurfaced...



3 days? And they were torqued right? Frustrating!

Hope the new hardware works. Keep us posted.
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2005 VR MSM, #1254 of 1428
FM exhaust
Rest of FM LE kit + FM radiator and stage II fan in boxes awaiting installation
Jake
First Gear
*
Posts: 25


« Reply #214 on: October 07, 2016, 10:28:54 PM »

I was going to give it a few months, but with the upcoming lockdown might as well get the post in now.

With such a quick return of my exhaust leak (3 days... shockeyes), I feared removing/repairing a warped manifold was in my near future.  Because that looks like a serious PITA, and others have mentioned the amazing powers of Nord-Lock washers, figured why not give them a try first?

I ordered some new nuts and washers from Amazon:
ARP 200-8683 M10 x 1.25 Locking Flange Nut - 10 Piece, ~$12
Nord-Lock 1527, Wedge Locking Washer, Carbon Steel, Zinc Flake Coated, M10, 20 Pack, ~$14

All but one of the stock manifold nuts came off easily, and only two studs pulled free of the head.  I left the stubborn one alone as it wouldn't come loose with a breaker bar, cleaned everything else up, put the two studs back in, and reassembled with the new ARP nuts and Nord-Lock washers.  Torqued to 35 ft lbs in a center out/upper lower pattern.  Less than $30, a few hours of work, and not a hint of the returning leak in almost a month now.

As much as you have to remove to get that dang heat shield off, the Nord-Locks appear to be some decently priced insurance.
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2005 LO MSM #462
Ex's: 2001 BRG SE #2718, 2004 VR MSM, 1996 Brilliant Black, 1991 Crystal White
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