Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit

[BenB]

Here's a quick write-up on replacing the troublesome boost control solenoid with an aftermarket valve from Asco. This is based on posts others have made in other parts of the forum but I thought I'd do this to get all of the info into one spot. This is basically what you get if you order BEGi's bog fix, minus the Deutsch connector. For comparison purposes, I've got about $70 invested in this project.

Parts list:
Asco part #411L3212HV Miniature Solenoid Valve 3-Way from Valworx.com
2 x 10-32 barb fittings for 1/8” ID hose from Amazon
2 x ¼” male spade connectors
1/8” ID hose
1 x  ¾” clamp from local hardware store

You could also use some 90 degree fittings from www.mcmaster.com (Part #2844K73).  The vent hole from the valve is on the opposite end of the valve, between the wires.

Here's the problem valve, which lives under a gold-colored bracket between the coolant overflow tank and a fuse box:


Parts. The only spade connectors I could find were the crimp-on type, but I soldered them.


I used a nut that holds another part to the bracket to mount the Asco valve. BEGi has you use the nut you see just outboard of the one I used, but on my car, the valve pressed against a wiring harness that runs underneath, and I didn't want to chafe any wires. Others have drilled holes in the gold bracket and mounted the valve near the OEM location.


I zip-tied the female end of the connector to the bracket (1). Solenoid 2 has a nipple that sticks down through a hole in the bracket and hose 3 plugs into it. Hose 4 runs to the intake manifold. It doesn't seem to matter which opening on the valve is used for the two hoses. The vent opening in the valve is located between the two wires, on the opposite end of the valve.


The set-up seems to work well. No bog issues at all since I've done the swap. Comments/corrections are welcome.

[joeereid]

sweet! looks nice & tidy

[n.sears]

I think my solenoid has died.  It was throwing a p0106 code and upon removal and test check with a 9 volt, I do not hear the classic click.  So I'm up for a replacement.  One question, are you running a stock ecu and if so are you throwing any codes with this.  Thanks.

[BenB]

Yes, I'm running the stock ECU. I never did get a CEL when the car bogged.

[BenB]

Since I can't edit my previous reply: No CELs after replacing the solenoid, either.

[Fantasticmaxx]

nsears, I was in the same boat as you. had the p0106 code, and did not hear a click. did this upgrade and have been good ever since.

[n.sears]

Just a tip for everyone looking to avoid a huge headache.  The solenoid does have an intake and exhaust side.  On the type of solenoid used here, the openings should be marked with a 1 and 2.  1 goes to the intake side. 2 goes to the boost sensor side.  If you are running a higher psi, failure to do this with cause boost cut and hesitation under boost.  It took me weeks to figure this out as I had done a timing belt at the same time and thought I messed up my timing.  Runs great now.  It's worth the small amount of time and money to get rid of that factory solenoid.

[sprite63]

I picked up the parts for the fix. Did you have any issues fitting the barbs? I can't seem to get mine to fit tightly and concerned I'll strip the plastic threads...

[BenB]

Just a tip for everyone looking to avoid a huge headache.  The solenoid does have an intake and exhaust side.  On the type of solenoid used here, the openings should be marked with a 1 and 2.  1 goes to the intake side. 2 goes to the boost sensor side.  If you are running a higher psi, failure to do this with cause boost cut and hesitation under boost.  It took me weeks to figure this out as I had done a timing belt at the same time and thought I messed up my timing.  Runs great now.  It's worth the small amount of time and money to get rid of that factory solenoid.

Wow, I totally missed that on mine! It has the ports marked with a blocky Roman I and II, so they looked like just part of the plastic end cap. Thanks for catching that. I'll try to find time to pull mine off and take a picture to post here.

Sprite63, I didn't have any problems with the barbs on mine. They seemed to match the threads in the valve just fine and are still tight after 6 months.

[DaveB]

I - Normally closed port goes to the intake
II - Normally open port goes to the Pressure sensor

[Teamgym]

Did you all buy the unit from Valworx.com? And how long time was delivery?
I probably will try to get one ordered when I go to Florida in May for vacation as all the companies I've e-mailed so far isn't willing to ship to Sweden

[DaveB]

I bought it from Valworx.com - 3 weeks in my case - the valve was out of stock

Use shipito.com mail forwarding service(big advantage and saving - you can ask remove invoice and fill in a custom declaration your  )

Did you all buy the unit from Valworx.com? And how long time was delivery?
I probably will try to get one ordered when I go to Florida in May for vacation as all the companies I've e-mailed so far isn't willing to ship to Sweden

[RedMSM04]

This might be an ignorant question, but why not simply replace with an OEM part? Is the thinking this aftermarket unit will NOT have the same issues as the Mazda part in the long run?

[DaveB]

Industrial grade valve from very reputable manufacturer has a chance will be better than oem valve with long failure history.

This might be an ignorant question, but why not simply replace with an OEM part? Is the thinking this aftermarket unit will NOT have the same issues as the Mazda part in the long run?

[BenB]

Thanks for posting the photos, Dave. I wasn't able to get photos because family happened. The I and II look like just part of the molding, if you don't know what to look for. Of course, there is also the 1 and 2 on the Asco sticker that I didn't see, either. Time for stronger reading glasses.   

I got mine from Valveworks in about two weeks.