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Author Topic: Replacing OEM "bog solenoid" with an aftermarket unit  (Read 23738 times)
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BenB
Third Gear
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Posts: 152


« on: September 21, 2014, 12:02:55 PM »

Here's a quick write-up on replacing the troublesome boost control solenoid with an aftermarket valve from Asco. This is based on posts others have made in other parts of the forum but I thought I'd do this to get all of the info into one spot. This is basically what you get if you order BEGi's bog fix, minus the Deutsch connector. For comparison purposes, I've got about $70 invested in this project.

Parts list:
Asco part #411L3212HV Miniature Solenoid Valve 3-Way from Valworx.com
2 x 10-32 barb fittings for 1/8 ID hose from Amazon
2 x male spade connectors
1/8 ID hose
1 x  clamp from local hardware store

You could also use some 90 degree fittings from www.mcmaster.com (Part #2844K73).  The vent hole from the valve is on the opposite end of the valve, between the wires.

Here's the problem valve, which lives under a gold-colored bracket between the coolant overflow tank and a fuse box:


Parts. The only spade connectors I could find were the crimp-on type, but I soldered them.


I used a nut that holds another part to the bracket to mount the Asco valve. BEGi has you use the nut you see just outboard of the one I used, but on my car, the valve pressed against a wiring harness that runs underneath, and I didn't want to chafe any wires. Others have drilled holes in the gold bracket and mounted the valve near the OEM location.


I zip-tied the female end of the connector to the bracket (1). Solenoid 2 has a nipple that sticks down through a hole in the bracket and hose 3 plugs into it. Hose 4 runs to the intake manifold. It doesn't seem to matter which opening on the valve is used for the two hoses. The vent opening in the valve is located between the two wires, on the opposite end of the valve.


The set-up seems to work well. No bog issues at all since I've done the swap. Comments/corrections are welcome.
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MSM #1103
joeereid
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2014, 12:07:36 AM »

sweet! looks nice & tidy
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
n.sears
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2015, 03:13:57 AM »

I think my solenoid has died.  It was throwing a p0106 code and upon removal and test check with a 9 volt, I do not hear the classic click.  So I'm up for a replacement.  One question, are you running a stock ecu and if so are you throwing any codes with this.  Thanks.
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2004 velocity red.  FM Little Enchilada, vmaxx exxtreme sports, MR short shifter, FM sways, Boss Frog double hoops.
BenB
Third Gear
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Posts: 152


« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2015, 04:11:04 PM »

Yes, I'm running the stock ECU. I never did get a CEL when the car bogged.
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MSM #1103
BenB
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Posts: 152


« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2015, 07:26:06 PM »

Since I can't edit my previous reply: No CELs after replacing the solenoid, either.
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MSM #1103
Fantasticmaxx
Second Gear
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Posts: 92



« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2015, 03:29:22 AM »

nsears, I was in the same boat as you. had the p0106 code, and did not hear a click. did this upgrade and have been good ever since.
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04 VR: Ebay DP, Joes Intake with MAF Relocation, FM VMaxx Classics, Konig Wideopen
n.sears
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2015, 01:59:32 AM »

Just a tip for everyone looking to avoid a huge headache.  The solenoid does have an intake and exhaust side.  On the type of solenoid used here, the openings should be marked with a 1 and 2.  1 goes to the intake side. 2 goes to the boost sensor side.  If you are running a higher psi, failure to do this with cause boost cut and hesitation under boost.  It took me weeks to figure this out as I had done a timing belt at the same time and thought I messed up my timing.  Runs great now.  It's worth the small amount of time and money to get rid of that factory solenoid.
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2004 velocity red.  FM Little Enchilada, vmaxx exxtreme sports, MR short shifter, FM sways, Boss Frog double hoops.
sprite63
Third Gear
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Posts: 215



« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2015, 07:25:59 PM »

I picked up the parts for the fix. Did you have any issues fitting the barbs? I can't seem to get mine to fit tightly and concerned I'll strip the plastic threads...
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05 MSM Black Mica (#740) FM intake and exhaust, V Maxx Classics
95 MP62 SC, V-Maxx suspension, Customized Racing Beat body kit
BenB
Third Gear
***
Posts: 152


« Reply #8 on: March 08, 2015, 11:29:31 AM »

Just a tip for everyone looking to avoid a huge headache.  The solenoid does have an intake and exhaust side.  On the type of solenoid used here, the openings should be marked with a 1 and 2.  1 goes to the intake side. 2 goes to the boost sensor side.  If you are running a higher psi, failure to do this with cause boost cut and hesitation under boost.  It took me weeks to figure this out as I had done a timing belt at the same time and thought I messed up my timing.  Runs great now.  It's worth the small amount of time and money to get rid of that factory solenoid.


Wow, I totally missed that on mine! It has the ports marked with a blocky Roman I and II, so they looked like just part of the plastic end cap. Thanks for catching that. I'll try to find time to pull mine off and take a picture to post here.

Sprite63, I didn't have any problems with the barbs on mine. They seemed to match the threads in the valve just fine and are still tight after 6 months.
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MSM #1103
DaveB
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Posts: 152


WWW
« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2015, 04:37:05 PM »






I - Normally closed port goes to the intake
II - Normally open port goes to the Pressure sensor
« Last Edit: March 12, 2015, 04:49:44 PM by DaveB » Logged

MS2E, 650cc, FM Full Exhaust, MBC, Joe's Intake
www.torontoinjectors.com
Teamgym
First Gear
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Posts: 19



« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2015, 02:14:24 PM »

Did you all buy the unit from Valworx.com? And how long time was delivery?
I probably will try to get one ordered when I go to Florida in May for vacation as all the companies I've e-mailed so far isn't willing to ship to Sweden Sad
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DaveB
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Posts: 152


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« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2015, 02:22:17 PM »

I bought it from Valworx.com - 3 weeks in my case - the valve was out of stock

Use shipito.com mail forwarding service(big advantage and saving - you can ask remove invoice and fill in a custom declaration your  Smiley)


Did you all buy the unit from Valworx.com? And how long time was delivery?
I probably will try to get one ordered when I go to Florida in May for vacation as all the companies I've e-mailed so far isn't willing to ship to Sweden Sad
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MS2E, 650cc, FM Full Exhaust, MBC, Joe's Intake
www.torontoinjectors.com
RedMSM04
First Gear
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Posts: 44


« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2015, 02:36:04 PM »

This might be an ignorant question, but why not simply replace with an OEM part? Is the thinking this aftermarket unit will NOT have the same issues as the Mazda part in the long run?
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'04 Velocity Red MSM GT #798 77k miles. Unmodified.
DaveB
Third Gear
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Posts: 152


WWW
« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2015, 03:04:39 PM »

Industrial grade valve from very reputable manufacturer has a chance will be better than oem valve with long failure history.


This might be an ignorant question, but why not simply replace with an OEM part? Is the thinking this aftermarket unit will NOT have the same issues as the Mazda part in the long run?
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MS2E, 650cc, FM Full Exhaust, MBC, Joe's Intake
www.torontoinjectors.com
BenB
Third Gear
***
Posts: 152


« Reply #14 on: March 15, 2015, 08:28:46 PM »

Thanks for posting the photos, Dave. I wasn't able to get photos because family happened. The I and II look like just part of the molding, if you don't know what to look for. Of course, there is also the 1 and 2 on the Asco sticker that I didn't see, either. Time for stronger reading glasses.   Sad

I got mine from Valveworks in about two weeks. 
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MSM #1103
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