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Author Topic: GarageStar Door Bushings (NB)  (Read 42513 times)
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joeereid
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2015, 05:02:35 AM »

I'll bite...
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
DMac_Speed
Because... Go kart!!!
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Posts: 271



« Reply #16 on: July 31, 2015, 03:31:11 AM »

I couldn't take anymore of y'all bragging about these magic unicorn tear door bushings. I ordered a set on Sunday evening and installed them this morning. It's absolutely amazing what these little plastic blocks can do. 😃👍
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2004 Ti MSM #1707 bought Jan 2013 mostly stock with 46k miles. She now has 75k miles (January 2016), complete FM intake, GFB recirculating BPV, TurboXS MBC set to 10.5psi, custom cold air ducting, eBay FMIC, FM O2 signal mod, custom SpeedHut Revolution boost gauge, Ultra-gauge, custom gauge mount, GTA car kit, eBay downpipe, and custom 3" exhaust... I'm an aerospace engineer, and I like building my own parts 😉
timely
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Posts: 88


« Reply #17 on: July 31, 2015, 11:42:20 AM »

How did you get your's so fast?!?!?! I ordered mine last Thursday and just got an email saying they shipped last night.  I feel like a kid at christmas the excitement is killing me! 

...what has life become when your main source of excitement is a door bushing.
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2004 VR MSM #2451
Engine: FM Full Intake, FM DP, FM Crossflow Radiator, 949 SuperMiata Hybrid Engine Mounts
Suspension: 15x8 Bronze Jongbloeds
Interior: MR SSK, MossMiata footwell lights, Nexus 7 Tablet Headunit
DMac_Speed
Because... Go kart!!!
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 271



« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2015, 03:24:42 PM »

I have no idea. I guess I just got lucky.

LOL. No kidding.
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2004 Ti MSM #1707 bought Jan 2013 mostly stock with 46k miles. She now has 75k miles (January 2016), complete FM intake, GFB recirculating BPV, TurboXS MBC set to 10.5psi, custom cold air ducting, eBay FMIC, FM O2 signal mod, custom SpeedHut Revolution boost gauge, Ultra-gauge, custom gauge mount, GTA car kit, eBay downpipe, and custom 3" exhaust... I'm an aerospace engineer, and I like building my own parts 😉
04TitaniumGrayPhilly
Forceful Driver
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« Reply #19 on: July 31, 2015, 09:01:48 PM »

Glad this is pushing some people to get these and that everyone is loving them. Really a new gem for the Miata community.  thumup

I will also say I have a Garagestar radiator panel, and a Cowl cover, both of which are great pieces. I'll probably get the spark plug cover next, but my experiences with GS have been nothing short of great.
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2004 Mazdaspeed Miata #2373 - 328whp and 308wtq/ 2500lbs
ARTech, EFR6258, XIDA, Maxxis RC-1, 3.63 R&P
joeereid
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #20 on: August 04, 2015, 01:48:37 AM »

I put mine in last night but it seems like the drivers side is off a bit . Loud click/pop when I open the door. Is there any adjustment in the striker positioning. I loosened the screws but it didn't seem to want to move . Do I gotta hit it with a hammer or what? Worried about putting undue stress on the latch mechanism.
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
magnus
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Posts: 609


Analog enthusiast


« Reply #21 on: August 04, 2015, 02:03:04 AM »

I put mine in last night but it seems like the drivers side is off a bit . Loud click/pop when I open the door. Is there any adjustment in the striker positioning. I loosened the screws but it didn't seem to want to move . Do I gotta hit it with a hammer or what? Worried about putting undue stress on the latch mechanism.

I've got the exact same scenario with both sides of my car. High force to close the doors and then an unhappy popping sound when I open them. I fiddled with my hinges when I installed fender braces so I thought I might have everything slightly out of whack, but I'm a bit wary of the design of the product itself. The stock bits are rubber to dampen vibration and take up a bit of variance. I notice that my stock pieces have worn down ~1-2mm on the top edge. Perhaps a new stock piece is the way to go.
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2004 VRM #3081 - San Francisco
1988 BMW M3
2000 Integra Type R
joeereid
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #22 on: August 04, 2015, 02:23:31 AM »

I put mine in last night but it seems like the drivers side is off a bit . Loud click/pop when I open the door. Is there any adjustment in the striker positioning. I loosened the screws but it didn't seem to want to move . Do I gotta hit it with a hammer or what? Worried about putting undue stress on the latch mechanism.

I've got the exact same scenario with both sides of my car. High force to close the doors and then an unhappy popping sound when I open them. I fiddled with my hinges when I installed fender braces so I thought I might have everything slightly out of whack, but I'm a bit wary of the design of the product itself. The stock bits are rubber to dampen vibration and take up a bit of variance. I notice that my stock pieces have worn down ~1-2mm on the top edge. Perhaps a new stock piece is the way to go.
Logged

05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
joeereid
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 1156



« Reply #23 on: August 04, 2015, 02:37:16 AM »

I ran some masking tape accross the door gap and drew a line with a straight edge to check before/after alignment and also masked around the old bushings to make sure the new part went back in the same place. Door alignment was fine but that sound is the sound of something that is not going to end well. I do have the back of the car up in the air for some design r+d so I'll check it when I have it back on the ground. The design does not mimic the shape of the OEM. A middle of the ground durometer between the OEM and the Delrin might be a better  option. Not sure if this is a "new" product that they just released so I will let them know about my issues and see if they have some solution.
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
rotorglow
Toyotae non carborundum.
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Posts: 2699


« Reply #24 on: August 04, 2015, 03:02:19 AM »

Just got mine today, haven't put them on yet. 

The holes are slotted.  Has anyone tried leaving the bolts a little loose to let the door move the bushing to where it fits better before torquing down the bolts?

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2004 VR Sport: FM Big Enchilada w/ Hydra 2.7 + DeatschWerks 700cc injectors + FM crossflow rad + 3.63 rear gears + ES poly diff bushings + comp motor mounts--Koni Sports + Ground Control 550/375 + Racing Beat 1.125" bar + blocks & bolts--Wilwood/AX6 brakes--15x8 6ULs + RE-71Rs--Speedhut + Clearwaters + Auxmod + other misc electrics
magnus
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 609


Analog enthusiast


« Reply #25 on: August 04, 2015, 05:47:23 AM »

Just got mine today, haven't put them on yet. 

The holes are slotted.  Has anyone tried leaving the bolts a little loose to let the door move the bushing to where it fits better before torquing down the bolts?



Yes, I threaded the bushings in loosely and swung the door gently to allow the bushings to self-center relative to the female part on the door. It did not resolve the issue.

It looks like we're not the only ones... here are some threads on miata.net. I'm not surprised to hear that some are having better results than others - door fit/finish is a bit of a black art and every car is adjusted a little bit differently from the factory.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=583911
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=582330
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=581270

I've sent a note to GS and will report back. Tomorrow I'll grab my calipers and measure the blocks and the door cups.
« Last Edit: August 04, 2015, 05:57:02 AM by magnus » Logged

2004 VRM #3081 - San Francisco
1988 BMW M3
2000 Integra Type R
DMac_Speed
Because... Go kart!!!
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« Reply #26 on: August 04, 2015, 05:56:23 AM »

One of mine fit perfectly, but I did have to file on the other one a little bit. I turned the slots into a "P" and it worked great.

Word of caution... Be careful not to overdo it. There's no going back.

I'd guess there is more variation in the tolerance of our doors than the GS bushings.
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2004 Ti MSM #1707 bought Jan 2013 mostly stock with 46k miles. She now has 75k miles (January 2016), complete FM intake, GFB recirculating BPV, TurboXS MBC set to 10.5psi, custom cold air ducting, eBay FMIC, FM O2 signal mod, custom SpeedHut Revolution boost gauge, Ultra-gauge, custom gauge mount, GTA car kit, eBay downpipe, and custom 3" exhaust... I'm an aerospace engineer, and I like building my own parts 😉
Chrisbee
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 254


« Reply #27 on: August 04, 2015, 06:11:44 AM »

I noticed the fitment on mine are really tight also. You have to almost slam the door to get it to fully latch. Then even when it's latched, the door panel sticks out around an 1/8" ferther than the rear quarter panel. Definitely alot of stress on the door latches now.
I have access to a mill at work. Thinking about milling a 1/16" from the slotted bolt holes, to give the bolts some lateral movement. That mite just give enough backwards movement to the bushings to take some tension off of the door latches.

What do you guys think?
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2004 TI #3021. Purchased Oct. 2014 with 56k miles.

Engine: FM 2 kit with Hydra 2.7, 700cc injectors, and full 3" exhaust.
FM Crossflow radiator w/stage 2 airflow kit.
Suspension: Fox Racing with FM sway bars.
Wheels: 15x8 Enkei PF01s running 215/50 BFG G-force Sports.
Misc: Custom Speedhut boost gauge in place of stock oil pressure gauge. Temp gauge mod. ScanGaugeII. Blue instrument panel lights. Eclipse dash vents.

Definitely a work in progress!
DMac_Speed
Because... Go kart!!!
Fourth Gear
****
Posts: 271



« Reply #28 on: August 04, 2015, 06:37:08 AM »

That's essentially the same thing that I did with a small round file. Instead of measuring, I would file a little bit and then test fit it each time. I still have enough preload on the bushings that they are effective, but now they're not over stressing the latches.
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2004 Ti MSM #1707 bought Jan 2013 mostly stock with 46k miles. She now has 75k miles (January 2016), complete FM intake, GFB recirculating BPV, TurboXS MBC set to 10.5psi, custom cold air ducting, eBay FMIC, FM O2 signal mod, custom SpeedHut Revolution boost gauge, Ultra-gauge, custom gauge mount, GTA car kit, eBay downpipe, and custom 3" exhaust... I'm an aerospace engineer, and I like building my own parts 😉
Chrisbee
Fourth Gear
****
Posts: 254


« Reply #29 on: August 04, 2015, 06:41:41 AM »

That's essentially the same thing that I did with a small round file. Instead of measuring, I would file a little bit and then test fit it each time. I still have enough preload on the bushings that they are effective, but now they're not over stressing the latches.

How much material do you think you removed?
I was just guessing 1/16" would be good. I'd like to get it pretty close the first time if I use the mill at work.
Logged

2004 TI #3021. Purchased Oct. 2014 with 56k miles.

Engine: FM 2 kit with Hydra 2.7, 700cc injectors, and full 3" exhaust.
FM Crossflow radiator w/stage 2 airflow kit.
Suspension: Fox Racing with FM sway bars.
Wheels: 15x8 Enkei PF01s running 215/50 BFG G-force Sports.
Misc: Custom Speedhut boost gauge in place of stock oil pressure gauge. Temp gauge mod. ScanGaugeII. Blue instrument panel lights. Eclipse dash vents.

Definitely a work in progress!
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