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Author Topic: Upgrading Coilovers  (Read 7841 times)
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ozbrock
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« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2015, 12:19:18 AM »

No I do not drive RC-1's on the street.   My comments to the OP were cautionary as his car is making 50% more power and torque and,  based on his previous postings, he likes to get on it.   Having successfully driven on these worn down to the wear bars  in a downpour does not say to me that RC-1's   are safe for street/highway driving, it just means that you were fortunate.      

I'm not trying to say that my experience driving in the rain makes them safe either.  I'm just saying that your idea of their susceptibility to debris, rain, oil, and grease is a little exaggerated, IMO, at least at the 200whp level.
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'05 LO #816, Joe's intake @ 10psi, Ebay 2.5" DP, FM 2.5" mid/rear exhaust, Fab9 350hp IC, 37mm Koyo, FM check valve, FrankB's washer fluid tank, Porterfield R4S pads with Centric blanks, MR short shifter w/extension, 320mm MOMO Monte Carlo, Daikei/Boss hub, HDHCDDHT, Tein Flex 9kg/7kg, 15x9" TRM c3m, 245/40r15 Maxxis RC-1, Garagestar front fender braces, Singular hood louvers, 8" Clearwater components
hox
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« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2015, 01:36:10 AM »

Fair enough.   I tend to be pretty conservative,  so I'll take your word for it regarding susceptibility to debris/grease.
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2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
04TitaniumGrayPhilly
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« Reply #17 on: September 22, 2015, 02:32:10 PM »

Firstly I want to thank everyone for their replies and concerns. As far as safety goes, yes, a non treaded tire is not ideal for the street, but this is not a primary use car. I've also never driven on tires that did not slip over gravel and loose items in the road. My first accident was actually after it rained for about a minute and the pavement was at it's slickest point. However, wet weather is not a concern since it's a sunny day car, but my tuner did get stuck in some heavy rain on the way from the dyno and said that it was better than he expected. Said he never had it over 45 but going through puddles the car tracked straight and he didn't feel in danger. On a nice day and a nice road, they provide great levels of grip both in the corners and the straights. Biggest difference is exiting a turn, where before if I would poke the pedal, I would instantly get either sideways or some kind of spin, now I can feel it break for a split second and then it just hooks up and move forward. Would a good street tire hold the power? maybe. I did want to go to a 245 size and the selection was very limited, a friend sold me the set of these mounted with alignment for $450 and I couldn't beat that. I like them so much, I will probably get another set after these are worn or heat cycled. The limitations they have are not important for me because when I take this car out it's either to have fun or to drive as slow as everyone else to work.

As far as suspension goes, I'm reevaluating my options. Thinking I might wait and see if I can adjust to the feel I have now, because with stiffened up damping, it feels slightly better. If I do modify suspension, it will probably be swapping the springs to see if I like the feel. I don't want to go cheap on this car, but at the same time I know i don't drive at the limit so the extra 1500 I spend on a high end suspension I will never get the most of. It's different overbuilding the engine because that was for reliability and power response which I can enjoy all the time. That $2,000 suspension which I may enjoy a few times a year on the track but then never get more out of on the street than what I have is starting to become less appealing. However, if I hit a nice bonus or 2 at work over the winter, maybe they, along with a few other things, will become a reality.

I do trust your guys opinions and am happy I didn't just go out and buy the XIDAs right away. Appreciate any other feedback you might have. I know the rates I have might be ok, but if I was going for all out performance, would not be near ideal, but then again, neither would tossing stiffer springs on the coils either. Gotta decide how I'll be using the car.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2015, 02:44:07 PM by 04TitaniumGrayPhilly » Logged

2004 Mazdaspeed Miata #2373 - 328whp and 308wtq/ 2500lbs
ARTech, EFR6258, XIDA, Maxxis RC-1, 3.63 R&P
'95MSM
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« Reply #18 on: September 24, 2015, 04:24:48 PM »

Per several tire engineers I've met over the years, the recovery threshold for all compounds of rubber (i.e. all tires) is way below the threshold of slip. It isn't possible for the tires to slip and then grip, without a significant reduction in whatever you are asking them to do (brake, turn, accelerate or a combination).
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
Canyonfive
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« Reply #19 on: September 24, 2015, 07:16:16 PM »

Just thought I would chime in here as I occasionally drive my BSP to the mts and delivering pizzas  Smiley

I have the koni 2812's and I have run rates over 1000lbs (20kg ish) up front without excessive NVH (wife doesn't complain). Good shocks are magic. Penskes or these konis run about $5,000 and what you get is the ultimate in dampening and control. That being said I think what you want is more shock travel, if you want comfort. That means custom top hats in the rear so you can get the rear travel almost to where the a-arm touches the chassis. For the front you'll need at least an inch shorter shock body and take out your front liners so you can get all the travel. This beyond rates or shocks will give you the most comfort. For performance your rates are in the ball park. Perhaps a stiffer front sway bar will help eliminate some more roll without add too much more NVH.
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www.miataspeed.com My YouTube Channel
My BSP build thread
Ebay IC, Custome Koni 2812's by Guy Akney, FM Intake, FM DP, Hallman Pro Rx @ 10psi, GFB VTA BOV, Carbotech Brake Pads F/R, 15 X 10 Custom Wheels, Hooiser A7's,  Memory Fab/ lotus seats , Custom from sway bar , Muffler Delete, Hydra 2.7 EMS Launch Control Flat shift E85 , 550RC's, Fuel Lab fuel filter,
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