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Author Topic: Broken Rear Sway bar bracket, how?  (Read 18209 times)
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Fourth Gear
Posts: 454

« Reply #15 on: February 11, 2016, 01:35:05 AM »

I also broke one. Drilled it from back of car towards front. Doesn't really matte, just get it out. No issues for m using a bolt.

Wow, old thread.

2004 Velocity Red MSM with Flyin' Miata's Big Enchilada tuned by Ken Hill, V-Maxx Extreme adjustable coilovers, FM front sway bar, 949 Racing End Links, Boss Frog Double Hoop Roll bar, Tr Motorsports c3m 15x9 wheels with 225 45 15 Hankook Rs3's and carbotech ax6 brake pads all around.
Jeff Goji
Fifth Gear
Posts: 750

« Reply #16 on: February 11, 2016, 01:47:34 AM »

I accidently snapped one many years ago on my 91, these bolts are unbelievably weak. Drilled it out from behind and replaced it with a bolt and nut setup.
Fifth Gear
Posts: 6076

Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing

« Reply #17 on: February 11, 2016, 02:36:20 AM »

I'll detail the racer's setup to end link setup, but it is beyond the resources of most people. Your take-away from this should be to get the car as level as possible, with the best alignment possible, then set the links so there is no pre-load. I'm not obsessive about having the anti-roll bars ends exactly level, but if they are tilted, you'll usually get a slightly different roll rate at one end of suspension travel vs. the other. If you have that going on at both ends of the car, you can get some interesting behavior during squat and/or dive. Setting the ARBs so that they don't bind all the way through full droop to full compression is way more important than keeping them from being tilted.

So if you have the resources:

1) Roll the car onto a known level surface, or at least 4 level-to-each-other wheel-pads. Linoleum floor tiles make great shims, and as long as there are Italian cafes in the world, you should be able to find black/white checker tiles for that extra "competition" look.
2) Disconnect front and rear sway bars
3) Deflate shocks if so equipped
4) Set ride height
5) Set corner weights, recheck 4) and repeat as necessary
6) Re-connect sway bar end links with zero pre-load
7) Set shock pressures

I go through this routine with the S2 before every race weekend.

I picked up a "next step" evolution from a former SCCA National Champ, but you have to have an alignment platform to realistically pull it off. Steven Johnson would setup his alignment platform and scales at every event. Before the first session, he would confirm the corner weights that he set back in the shop, then after every session, he would confirm that they have not changed significantly. Any significant change means the car has changed and you need to understand why. That was how SJ stayed in front of a shock going soft, or a suspension mounting point drifting, or any number of things that most often aren't found until the car does something vicious entering a corner.

« Last Edit: February 11, 2016, 02:47:21 AM by '95MSM » Logged

'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
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