Got a deal on pre-owned, un-used, fab9 intercooler from
teeone, free advice from
ozbrock, and "stuff" from Silicone Intakes...

Disassembled per millsj's excellent write-up here:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,25097.0.html 
I took off the whole plastic under-tray, since I was re-plumbin/replacing the hardpipes.

Front of car is now over there!

Old stuff. This might help when visualizing your new plumbing; needs to follow this path fairly closely.

For getting these power steering hard lines up out of the way, I removed the brackets they were attached to, then bolted their mounting points in the hole the brackets came out of. I put a hard rubber washer behind the brackets.

There they both are. I brain-farted the washer on the close one here, but fixed it later to put the washer behind the bracket. Geez, haha. This is looking up from below. You can see they are held higher than when they were mounted on the brackets.

Hung the fab9 IC in place. Still had my bolts and baby teeth in a bin, so employed one of the original bolts on each side to hold it (very) securely in place.

Driver's side is fairly simple. It's outside the plastic tray. From top to IC, I used a silicone 1.75" to 2.5" + 90* 2.5" aluminum pipe + 2.5" silicone coupler. I cut down a 2' pipe. The angle isn't quite right out the top, and it ended up right against my fog light (trimmed the housing). If I do it again, I'll probably adjust the angles a little. It works as-is, though.





Passenger side is a little tougher, with more angles and having to go through the plastic under-tray. I ordered parts based on what
Lokiel did here:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,30052.msg325952.html#msg325952I have Joe's intake, so this side goes from IC to re-located MAF: 2.5" silicone coupler + 2.5" J shaped aluminum pipe + 45* 2.5" silicone elbow + 2.5" 90* aluminum pipe + 2.5" silicone coupler. For the aluminum on this side, I bought a U-shaped piece and cut it to the sizes I needed.

This was a little intimidating, getting it around the bend, through the hole, under the sway bar...




Old/new

Cheesin'

I was able to re-assemble all the plastic, except I cut a bigger hole to fit new plumbing through. I needed to use some different connectors right under the IC since I could no longer fit/reach bolts through the holes.
Bonus...
Wolo bad boy air horn hanging from under headlights. I tapped one of the mounting holes for plastic thingie, but it felt too flimsy to hang the horn from so I loosened the headlight assembly and put a nut on top. The random wire in some previous shots was the horn. I didn't want it hanging in front of any radiators, or cluttering the engine compartment so put it here.

I've only driven it far enough to warm up and see that it holds boost. Anxious to see if plumbing settles up against anything. It is close to fog light on driver's side, and nearly touching the sway bar mount on passenger side.
Here's the shopping list I used at Silicone Intakes:
1 x 2' Mandrel Bent Aluminum 180° Bend, 2.5" (SIL000691) = $16.99
6 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.5" Silicone Parts (CLA000102) = $15.60
2 x 2.5" Silicone Straight Coupler, Black (SIL000615) = $11.98
1 x 2.5" Silicone 45° Elbow, Black (SIL000024) = $16.99
1 x 2.5" Silicone Straight Coupler, Black (SIL000615) = $5.99
1 x Silicone Reducer, 2.5" to 1.75" - Red (SIL000544) = $9.99
1 x 2' Mandrel Bent Aluminum 90° Bend, 2.5" (SIL000698) = $16.99
3 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.5" Silicone Parts (CLA000102) = $7.80
1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 1.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000107) = $2.60
Ended up with a few straight pieces left over after the cuts.
Next time I'd have something besides a hack saw to cut with so I wasn't so averse to fine-tuning the angles of aluminum pipe.
Please ask questions and make suggestions. Hope this helps someone!
