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Author Topic: License Plate Lights  (Read 23823 times)
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millsj
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 2575



« Reply #15 on: December 12, 2013, 03:58:27 PM »

The problem I have found with replacing the license plate bulbs is that it is easy to break the "ears" off the plastic bulb holder when you go to pop it out of the lid.  I little dab of caulk will hold it in place if you do break one.
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
bigern79
First Gear
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Posts: 25


« Reply #16 on: January 26, 2016, 06:33:17 PM »

Old thread, but maybe you guys can help.  Let me preface by saying "I feel like a complete idiot and I'm embarrassed".

Now that we got that out of the way, how the hell do you get the license plate/trunk light housing off?  All I want to do is change a burnt out bulb.  I slide the housing over, but it seems like some tabs are keeping it from coming out?  I don't want to break them, but I'm not entirely sure how how to get this thing out so I can swap the bulb.  Any ideas?
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tuckermon
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 274


« Reply #17 on: January 26, 2016, 06:39:19 PM »

I used these over the OEM openings.

http://www.amazon.com/BRIGHT-CLEAR-WHITE-UTILITY-MARINE/dp/B013XBOL20/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453833482&sr=1-5&keywords=led+strip+12v+6%22
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joeereid
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #18 on: January 26, 2016, 08:33:07 PM »

If you look at the lense, you will see a little arrow. You need to push/slide the entire housing over in the direction of the arrow and then the end opposite the arrow is pulled/pried/tilted away for removal. You have to push over hard and make sure the upper gasket is not binding. 80% chance something is going to break because they are junk. I think they are actually a "Lucas, Prince of Darkness" design/part...so "English junk " You can caulk them back in or I just drilled a hole thru the arrow end and the deck lid and put a screw in there. Good luck.
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
bigern79
First Gear
*
Posts: 25


« Reply #19 on: January 27, 2016, 12:01:18 AM »

If you look at the lense, you will see a little arrow. You need to push/slide the entire housing over in the direction of the arrow and then the end opposite the arrow is pulled/pried/tilted away for removal. You have to push over hard and make sure the upper gasket is not binding. 80% chance something is going to break because they are junk. I think they are actually a "Lucas, Prince of Darkness" design/part...so "English junk " You can caulk them back in or I just drilled a hole thru the arrow end and the deck lid and put a screw in there. Good luck.

Thanks - I'll give it another try.  I'm giving it a 95% chance of breaking  buck2
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joeereid
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 1156



« Reply #20 on: January 27, 2016, 12:15:50 AM »

I bought some new Dorman brand housings for my donor Aero trunk lid. There was way too much effort involved in trying to get them in so I modified the lock/fixed tab so they would be easier to remove next time. The lock tab is at the end without the arrow You'll see what I mean if/when you get them out intact. The Dorman lock tab has a bigger 'Lump' on it than the OEM I filed it down to match and then some.
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
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