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Author Topic: How much time to swap shocks?  (Read 6850 times)
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Qwimby1
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« on: February 23, 2016, 02:44:55 AM »

Flat-rate book shows 4 hours rear, 3 front.  I know most good mechanics can cut flat-rate times by a lot.  It will undoubtedly take me longer without a lift and air tools but I've done it before on bigger cars and the thread by millsj in the archives looks pretty straightforward.  I don't understand why the rears call for more time because it looks a lot easier back there, unless they are somehow harder to get to.  My biggest concern is getting the long bolt in front loose and out of the way.
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05 Titanium MSM with essentially permanent hardtop.  FM intake and downpipe, V-Maxx suspension, 15" BBS wheels from 95LE, 3.63 diff.  In the past - 94 NA, 83 Ferrari 308 GTS Quatrovalve, 86 Ferrari 328 GTS, 86 Porsche 944, 86 944 turbo, 62 XKE coupe, 64 XKE coupe, 55 Jaguar XK140 MC coupe, 71 Volvo P1800. 55 Triumph T110 motorcycle, 74 Honda 550, 99 BMW R1100RT, 02 BMW R1150RT, 04 BMW R1150R, 09 Suzuki V-Strom 650. lots of assorted British, German and Italian cars and bikes.
Lokiel
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« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2016, 03:10:27 AM »

6 hours if you know what you're doing and have a rattle gun. Fronts take the longest.
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Ti Aussie "SE" (cannot be called "MazdaSpeed" here, "speed/performance" badging encourages reckless driving apparently), DIY AutoTune MS3-Pro ECU, Borg-Warner EFR6258, NitroDann custom manifold+3"exhaust+CAI, Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, GM D514A CNPs, 83.5mm coated CP pistons, K1 rods, Fab9 350HP intercooler,  ported Squaretop Intake Manifold, Skunk2 Throttle Body, ATi Super Damper, '95MSM SpeedHut Boost Gauge Mod, GREDDY Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat, Setrab Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Series coilovers (8/6kg), 1.125" Racing Beat Tubular Sway Bar + Al Braces, 949racing SuperMiata end links, Carbing 3-pt shock tower brace, Nickel 6UL 15x8s, Toyo R1Rs 225/45/15, Wilwood Front BBK, SS Brake Lines, FM Frame Rails, Boss Frog "Frog Arms", MX5 Plus Twin Hoop Roll Bar, MiataRoadster long-angled SSK, Piano-Black Voodoo Knob&HandBrake, Innovate MTX-L Wideband O2 gauge+sensor, Lotus Probax seats + lots of "goes faster" chrome bling (since chrome reflects light, less of the colour spectrum is absorbed, making the car lighter - "pseudo-science" Smiley ).
Build Thread: http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=41091
Qwimby1
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« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2016, 03:13:45 AM »

Thanks,

It might be worth renting an air gun, or looking for a deal at Harbor Freight.  I thought the fronts should take longer.
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05 Titanium MSM with essentially permanent hardtop.  FM intake and downpipe, V-Maxx suspension, 15" BBS wheels from 95LE, 3.63 diff.  In the past - 94 NA, 83 Ferrari 308 GTS Quatrovalve, 86 Ferrari 328 GTS, 86 Porsche 944, 86 944 turbo, 62 XKE coupe, 64 XKE coupe, 55 Jaguar XK140 MC coupe, 71 Volvo P1800. 55 Triumph T110 motorcycle, 74 Honda 550, 99 BMW R1100RT, 02 BMW R1150RT, 04 BMW R1150R, 09 Suzuki V-Strom 650. lots of assorted British, German and Italian cars and bikes.
joeereid
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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2016, 03:46:55 AM »

Fyi. Long bolt method has a lot more complications if you're running the RB Sway Bar and Blocks.
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
darkcambria
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« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2016, 03:50:24 AM »


6 hours if you know what you're doing and have a rattle gun. Fronts take the longest.

That's pretty high. I've done front and rear in a little over 2 hours before.

The rears are pretty easy but it is annoying to get to the nuts for the top of the shocks. The drivers side gets annoying with the fuel filler in the way but that can actually be unbolted and moved out of the way.
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'95MSM
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« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2016, 04:06:15 AM »

darkcambria summed it up nicely.

I think if I hustled, I could do all four comfortably under two hours using the long-bolt method in the front.

One thing that can really make a difference is what you have for a spring compressor. If you use suicide sticks, add at least half an hour of work and 5 mins of cussing. I compress the assemblies in my hydraulic press - very safe, very reliable results. The last time I used suicide stick spring compressors I broke the last segment of my righthand bird finger when the two compressors decided to meet on one side of the spring.
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245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
Qwimby1
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« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2016, 04:39:22 AM »

Thanks for the warning.  I do have suicide sticks but may rethink how I'll go about it. 
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05 Titanium MSM with essentially permanent hardtop.  FM intake and downpipe, V-Maxx suspension, 15" BBS wheels from 95LE, 3.63 diff.  In the past - 94 NA, 83 Ferrari 308 GTS Quatrovalve, 86 Ferrari 328 GTS, 86 Porsche 944, 86 944 turbo, 62 XKE coupe, 64 XKE coupe, 55 Jaguar XK140 MC coupe, 71 Volvo P1800. 55 Triumph T110 motorcycle, 74 Honda 550, 99 BMW R1100RT, 02 BMW R1150RT, 04 BMW R1150R, 09 Suzuki V-Strom 650. lots of assorted British, German and Italian cars and bikes.
mr_hyde
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« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2016, 06:16:19 AM »

A lot of the variable will depend on how crusty the car is.  If you are in the rust best with a 150k mile year round daily driver, it could be 6 hours per corner and bring a cutting torch.  If you have an Arizona garage queen, 1 hours per corner is reasonable.  With the long bolt, you don't need spring compressors.  Drop the lower control arm with a floor jack.
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m3fan4ever
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« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2016, 02:27:02 PM »

I just did this job a month ago. I was alone doing this for the first time, the suspension and related bolts had never been touched, used the long bolt method, and watched several youtube videos multiple times before starting. It took about 6-7 hours. I was putting in brand new coilovers so assembling them and adjusting them once on the car is part of that time. Standard tools including an impact wrench. Get yourself some Kroil penetrant. The stuff works magic.
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millsj
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« Reply #9 on: February 23, 2016, 05:03:33 PM »

If you are looking for tools and are going to be doing work yourself, invest in an electric impact wrench.  It is by far my favorite tool in the shop. 
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
Qwimby1
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« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2016, 07:28:32 PM »

I have an 18v cordless impact wrench and spring compressors.  I never heard the term suicide sticks before but guess that's what 95MSM meant.  The car has been in Florida all its life and I regularly flush out the fender wells when washing or bleeding brakes so I'm hoping it won't be too crudded up under there.  FM tells me the V-Maxx may lower the car a bit.  I don't want to go much lower, but I'm told it won't be much if I use the highest setting.
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05 Titanium MSM with essentially permanent hardtop.  FM intake and downpipe, V-Maxx suspension, 15" BBS wheels from 95LE, 3.63 diff.  In the past - 94 NA, 83 Ferrari 308 GTS Quatrovalve, 86 Ferrari 328 GTS, 86 Porsche 944, 86 944 turbo, 62 XKE coupe, 64 XKE coupe, 55 Jaguar XK140 MC coupe, 71 Volvo P1800. 55 Triumph T110 motorcycle, 74 Honda 550, 99 BMW R1100RT, 02 BMW R1150RT, 04 BMW R1150R, 09 Suzuki V-Strom 650. lots of assorted British, German and Italian cars and bikes.
Qwimby1
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« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2016, 07:41:07 PM »

A lot of the variable will depend on how crusty the car is.  If you are in the rust best with a 150k mile year round daily driver, it could be 6 hours per corner and bring a cutting torch.  If you have an Arizona garage queen, 1 hours per corner is reasonable.  With the long bolt, you don't need spring compressors.  Drop the lower control arm with a floor jack.
I was thinking about using that method.  I think there's a thread on that in the archives and will look for it.

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05 Titanium MSM with essentially permanent hardtop.  FM intake and downpipe, V-Maxx suspension, 15" BBS wheels from 95LE, 3.63 diff.  In the past - 94 NA, 83 Ferrari 308 GTS Quatrovalve, 86 Ferrari 328 GTS, 86 Porsche 944, 86 944 turbo, 62 XKE coupe, 64 XKE coupe, 55 Jaguar XK140 MC coupe, 71 Volvo P1800. 55 Triumph T110 motorcycle, 74 Honda 550, 99 BMW R1100RT, 02 BMW R1150RT, 04 BMW R1150R, 09 Suzuki V-Strom 650. lots of assorted British, German and Italian cars and bikes.
04TitaniumGrayPhilly
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« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2016, 08:14:59 PM »

When we installed my old TEIN FLEX into my buddy's 02 SE, it took 4 hours including a few small BS breaks, and a front sway bar.
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Qwimby1
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« Reply #13 on: February 24, 2016, 02:01:12 AM »

Here's a Youtube on the long-bolt method.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrZals4D-BA




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05 Titanium MSM with essentially permanent hardtop.  FM intake and downpipe, V-Maxx suspension, 15" BBS wheels from 95LE, 3.63 diff.  In the past - 94 NA, 83 Ferrari 308 GTS Quatrovalve, 86 Ferrari 328 GTS, 86 Porsche 944, 86 944 turbo, 62 XKE coupe, 64 XKE coupe, 55 Jaguar XK140 MC coupe, 71 Volvo P1800. 55 Triumph T110 motorcycle, 74 Honda 550, 99 BMW R1100RT, 02 BMW R1150RT, 04 BMW R1150R, 09 Suzuki V-Strom 650. lots of assorted British, German and Italian cars and bikes.
Lokiel
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« Reply #14 on: February 24, 2016, 05:33:39 AM »

If you are looking for tools and are going to be doing work yourself, invest in an electric impact wrench.  It is by far my favorite tool in the shop. 
+1
First time I did this job was with hand tools and it took me a LOT longer than 6 hours.
A quality cordless rattle gun is one of the best tools you'll own (awesome for swapping rims and any of those stubborn suspension nuts/bolts) so buy it for this job, it's definitely a good reason to purchase one.

Tip for those rear nuts, especially the one near the fuel line: Use a 6-point impact socket rather than a 12-point or loosely fitting regular socket since those nuts are a bugger to get off and round-off easily. Have some replacement nuts ready to go rather than re-installing the OEM nuts. Impact sockets tend to fit tighter so will be less likely to round/mangle the nut.
- on one car, the owner had mangled his so badly I needed to hammer the socket onto the nuts to remove them (luckily the nut metal was so soft it didn't damage the socket at all).
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Ti Aussie "SE" (cannot be called "MazdaSpeed" here, "speed/performance" badging encourages reckless driving apparently), DIY AutoTune MS3-Pro ECU, Borg-Warner EFR6258, NitroDann custom manifold+3"exhaust+CAI, Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, GM D514A CNPs, 83.5mm coated CP pistons, K1 rods, Fab9 350HP intercooler,  ported Squaretop Intake Manifold, Skunk2 Throttle Body, ATi Super Damper, '95MSM SpeedHut Boost Gauge Mod, GREDDY Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat, Setrab Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Series coilovers (8/6kg), 1.125" Racing Beat Tubular Sway Bar + Al Braces, 949racing SuperMiata end links, Carbing 3-pt shock tower brace, Nickel 6UL 15x8s, Toyo R1Rs 225/45/15, Wilwood Front BBK, SS Brake Lines, FM Frame Rails, Boss Frog "Frog Arms", MX5 Plus Twin Hoop Roll Bar, MiataRoadster long-angled SSK, Piano-Black Voodoo Knob&HandBrake, Innovate MTX-L Wideband O2 gauge+sensor, Lotus Probax seats + lots of "goes faster" chrome bling (since chrome reflects light, less of the colour spectrum is absorbed, making the car lighter - "pseudo-science" Smiley ).
Build Thread: http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=41091
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