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Author Topic: MS Labs MS2E (Rev Enhanced MS2) Install, Set-up and Tuning - 2005 MSM  (Read 31595 times)
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VcrMiata
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« Reply #30 on: May 09, 2016, 08:35:00 PM »

Just checked where I learned about VTCS settings:
http://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/standard-vics-vtcs-behaviour-52479/

MSM has VTCS (we do not have VICS).

OEM VTCS is active when coolant is less than 60C and RPM is under 3,500.
OEM VICS has a transition point when RPM is 5,200  (active vs inactive is a bit confusing Smiley)

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2005 Ti MSM - FM LE + RX8 420 injectors + MS3
TheBigChill
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« Reply #31 on: May 10, 2016, 12:35:50 PM »

That thread is already linked to, among others.   afro
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Deathtrap13
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« Reply #32 on: May 10, 2016, 12:56:22 PM »

UPDATE:

Tuning fuel and spark has gone pretty well so far, I am hitting my AFR targets fine up to 9-10 psi. Have not had a chance to pass 7000 rpm and the car has not been over 90mph....now that the fuel map is stable I am going to start addressing things like:

- when the car comes off of a throttle blip sometimes RPMS rebound low (500rpm and then back up)
- I cranked the car up hot after a run and got a very rough (almost stalling out) condition that required me to keep on the throttle to keep it running
- the low cells on the fuel map give me poping/rumbling, I think those cells need more resolution because its switching from low 40's to mid 50's fast

I'm about to post screen-shots of my Idle/Cranking settings. I pretty much have not touched them other than the WUE (Warm-up enrichment) and scaled down my PWM table

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Maduh
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« Reply #33 on: May 11, 2016, 06:45:54 AM »

Wow, this thread is making me nervous.  I JUST sent Rev $950 about 5 minutes ago for an MS3 for my MSM.  And I was hoping to get it running well enough in about a month for a track day.  Might have to postpone that first track day after reading this...
I doubt you'll get yours within a month. Both times I've bought a unit from Rev it took atleast 6-7 weeks to come in.
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RIP #361 05' Black Mica Mazdaspeed mx-5, swap in progress to 1999 Miata Base. Follow my build thread here: http://tinyurl.com/pwtx3f9
Deathtrap13
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« Reply #34 on: May 11, 2016, 09:40:33 PM »

Starting when CLT temps are above 175* really sucks. It cranks for like 3 seconds and feels like its not going to start, then it catches and almost stalls...then It starts to run very weak and AFR's are like 7-8 super rich for like 12 seconds and then It idles low.

after that it goes back to running and idling fine (750-800rpm @ 14.4-15 AFR)

Still getting a shifty rebound when I blip the throttle, I need more resolution in the lower cells. so I think I should Re-scale the VE table and take out 240kpa and add more lower kpa cells for cruising.
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DaveB
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« Reply #35 on: May 12, 2016, 08:38:17 PM »

Starting when CLT temps are above 175* really sucks. It cranks for like 3 seconds and feels like its not going to start, then it catches and almost stalls...then It starts to run very weak and AFR's are like 7-8 super rich for like 12 seconds and then It idles low.

IAT heat sock?
move it to the IC cold side?
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MS2E, 650cc, FM Full Exhaust, MBC, Joe's Intake
www.torontoinjectors.com
Deathtrap13
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« Reply #36 on: May 12, 2016, 09:09:31 PM »

Starting when CLT temps are above 175* really sucks. It cranks for like 3 seconds and feels like its not going to start, then it catches and almost stalls...then It starts to run very weak and AFR's are like 7-8 super rich for like 12 seconds and then It idles low.

IAT heat sock?
move it to the IC cold side?
it already is.
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Deathtrap13
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« Reply #37 on: May 12, 2016, 10:22:26 PM »

Im not sure If I stated this.

This car has a Flyin' Miata Cold Air Intake, FM Intercooler and Begi Throttle Pipe. The new GM IAT Bung is in that begi throttle pipe. Also I have a Turbosmart Manual Boost Controller.

Turned down my ASE values again and I will go try again in a second and see if it made a difference.... temps are getting hot here in North Carolina so Its not so important to have it exactly perfect right now. I was in the gym for like 2 hours and when I came back out my CLT temps were still at 150*
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DaveB
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« Reply #38 on: May 12, 2016, 11:27:13 PM »

Starting when CLT temps are above 175* really sucks. It cranks for like 3 seconds and feels like its not going to start, then it catches and almost stalls...then It starts to run very weak and AFR's are like 7-8 super rich for like 12 seconds and then It idles low.
IAT heat sock?
move it to the IC cold side?

it already is.

The new GM IAT Bung is in that begi throttle pipe.

I am sorry but: IAT is in the throttle pipe or in the intercooler?
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MS2E, 650cc, FM Full Exhaust, MBC, Joe's Intake
www.torontoinjectors.com
Deathtrap13
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« Reply #39 on: May 14, 2016, 05:00:41 PM »

Starting when CLT temps are above 175* really sucks. It cranks for like 3 seconds and feels like its not going to start, then it catches and almost stalls...then It starts to run very weak and AFR's are like 7-8 super rich for like 12 seconds and then It idles low.
IAT heat sock?
move it to the IC cold side?

it already is.

The new GM IAT Bung is in that begi throttle pipe.

I am sorry but: IAT is in the throttle pipe or in the intercooler?
the throttle tube that comes after the intercooler. the place where every person has ever put it.



Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

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DaveB
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« Reply #40 on: May 14, 2016, 07:50:29 PM »

Starting when CLT temps are above 175* really sucks. It cranks for like 3 seconds and feels like its not going to start, then it catches and almost stalls...then It starts to run very weak and AFR's are like 7-8 super rich for like 12 seconds and then It idles low.
IAT heat sock?
move it to the IC cold side?

it already is.

The new GM IAT Bung is in that begi throttle pipe.

I am sorry but: IAT is in the throttle pipe or in the intercooler?

the throttle tube that comes after the intercooler. the place where every person has ever put it.

"There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio,
Than are dreamt of in your philosophy"

It is already discussed many times on mt.net and other forums.


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MS2E, 650cc, FM Full Exhaust, MBC, Joe's Intake
www.torontoinjectors.com
Fl.Miata.Fun
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« Reply #41 on: May 25, 2016, 05:18:06 PM »

Thanks for posting your experience with MS2.  This is great information for me to decide if I want to go this route.  As you said, it's not for the faint of heart.  I just replaced my timing belt, cam/crank seals, water pump, etc., but I have never done tuning before....

I just bought a totally stock 2004 MSM 2 months ago, and I'm trying to decide what mods I want to do. Initially I thought of just going FM LE and then the reflash.  However, I feel like I will be limited on future upgrades with the reflash, especially if I want to upgrade the turbo.....the FM Garrett upgrade is reallllly appealing to me! 

Any recommendations on starting with the MS as my first step? 
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SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #42 on: May 25, 2016, 05:41:46 PM »

I suggest you do a bit more reading before you make choices.  There are a few options out there and a few options that are not the best choice.  You mentioned one of them but not for the correct reason.
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Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway
'95MSM
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Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #43 on: May 25, 2016, 06:51:38 PM »

If you think you will wind up with something other than the stock (or a stock-ish) IHI, I would not do the normal MSM upgrade path. Treat it like a normal NB - almost none of the MSM upgrade parts will be really right for whatever turbo you install.

Your first step will then be a really big one, but otherwise you will be retracing steps and selling off parts that you can no longer use.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
Deathtrap13
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« Reply #44 on: May 25, 2016, 07:32:32 PM »

Thanks for posting your experience with MS2.  This is great information for me to decide if I want to go this route.  As you said, it's not for the faint of heart.  I just replaced my timing belt, cam/crank seals, water pump, etc., but I have never done tuning before....

I just bought a totally stock 2004 MSM 2 months ago, and I'm trying to decide what mods I want to do. Initially I thought of just going FM LE and then the reflash.  However, I feel like I will be limited on future upgrades with the reflash, especially if I want to upgrade the turbo.....the FM Garrett upgrade is reallllly appealing to me! 

Any recommendations on starting with the MS as my first step? 

    I think your thinking about it too much. You NEED an ECU. Get an MS or get a hydra. you will figure it all out eventually, and at worst have to find a tuner to help you, but If you keep an open mind its really not all that bad.
    I really just wanted to get across than even though these things are "Plug-n-Play" your still going to have to dedicate yourself to learning, and reading about stuff. and it's even less stressful if you have a back-up car if things go wrong.
« Last Edit: May 25, 2016, 07:34:46 PM by Deathtrap13 » Logged
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