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Author Topic: Moving On; Beyond MSM  (Read 17273 times)
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sfcarbone
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Posts: 241


« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2016, 08:42:39 PM »

Have you considered talking to your insurance agent?  Hitting a curb is probably a covered event and it sounds like you are well past your deductible.
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'95MSM
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Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #16 on: July 14, 2016, 10:32:22 PM »

The only way most people would take on a project that could have additional hidden damage is at a price so low that they will come out okay regardless of the outcome. I don't think it is realistic to take what you think the car would be worth after it is repaired, subtract the cost of the repairs and think you can get that for the car as-is. If the repairs are estimated at 4k, I think you might get 3k. Be prepared for any dealer trade-in offer to be offensively low.

Many years ago our first Lexus RX needed a transmission. We sold it through a trans repair shop, so the buyer was completely in the know as far as what the car needed. Seems like we got 5k for it, maybe just a bit more. The dealer offered us 2500 trade-in on our new RX. All of this was happening when Lexus was sending out postcards to owners saying their dealers needed good, clean used Lexus cars & SUVs and were offering top dollar. Our car was mint other than the trans, but they offered us peanuts for it.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
ElyasWolff
Second Gear
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Posts: 84



« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2016, 12:17:55 AM »

The only way most people would take on a project that could have additional hidden damage is at a price so low that they will come out okay regardless of the outcome. I don't think it is realistic to take what you think the car would be worth after it is repaired, subtract the cost of the repairs and think you can get that for the car as-is. If the repairs are estimated at 4k, I think you might get 3k. Be prepared for any dealer trade-in offer to be offensively low.

Many years ago our first Lexus RX needed a transmission. We sold it through a trans repair shop, so the buyer was completely in the know as far as what the car needed. Seems like we got 5k for it, maybe just a bit more. The dealer offered us 2500 trade-in on our new RX. All of this was happening when Lexus was sending out postcards to owners saying their dealers needed good, clean used Lexus cars & SUVs and were offering top dollar. Our car was mint other than the trans, but they offered us peanuts for it.

Thats funny my off the hip offer was 3K too. And that was factoring me doing the work... but you all know I love broke Miatas and go overboard fixing them.
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2004 VR red MSM. Clapped out, beat to heck, and then rescued because this car is worthy project.
TurboToy
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 366


Ti Turbo Toy


« Reply #18 on: July 17, 2016, 02:38:50 AM »

Sir Wolf, thanks for your 'off the hip' figure, but after my ride with TheJeans Friday, I surely won't shoot from the hip with my next move. Fingers crossed, I hope I just need coilovers and wheels.
I got a nice ride, smoke included, in TheJeans's MSM. I was gleefully overwhelmed by how absurd yet proper it felt.
A set of FM coilovers ought to sort the whole ride situation out nicely. Mr Jeans's slammed, track ready demon took highway bumps worlds better than mine. Melted the curves like butter. It's time I gave up 'the look'  of 17's. Jeans feels right - 16s are meant for the Miata. The ride revolution was a shock.
A surprise was the sound. Top down, ripping around, the noise was superb. An intake/exhaust upgrade is going to sound so sweet, but not Civic Ricer 'Fabulus'.
Hope my Monday diagnosis is to save the patient.
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'04 Titanium, #2,641 - Bone stock; Big Pimpin'.
thejeans
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Posts: 105


« Reply #19 on: July 18, 2016, 02:36:53 PM »

Sir Wolf, thanks for your 'off the hip' figure, but after my ride with TheJeans Friday, I surely won't shoot from the hip with my next move. Fingers crossed, I hope I just need coilovers and wheels.
I got a nice ride, smoke included, in TheJeans's MSM. I was gleefully overwhelmed by how absurd yet proper it felt.
A set of FM coilovers ought to sort the whole ride situation out nicely. Mr Jeans's slammed, track ready demon took highway bumps worlds better than mine. Melted the curves like butter. It's time I gave up 'the look'  of 17's. Jeans feels right - 16s are meant for the Miata. The ride revolution was a shock.
A surprise was the sound. Top down, ripping around, the noise was superb. An intake/exhaust upgrade is going to sound so sweet, but not Civic Ricer 'Fabulus'.
Hope my Monday diagnosis is to save the patient.


I have 15x9's on my car, but it was great to meet you, and I'm glad I could help!
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'95MSM
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« Reply #20 on: July 18, 2016, 10:10:40 PM »

Grin

I had almost replied yesterday that FIFTEENS are meant for NA & NB Miatas.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #21 on: July 18, 2016, 10:15:00 PM »

I thought 16's sounded odd too as good tires as getting scarce in Miata sizes with those rims
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Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway
drizzay222
Second Gear
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Posts: 68



« Reply #22 on: July 19, 2016, 01:32:24 AM »

Option c: if your car is shot buy a cheap NA or NB and swap your goodies.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Little Enchilada, Megasquirt PNPPro, ID 1000, XIDA & 949 Racing Big Grip Kit, 15x9 6ul BFG Rival S 225/45/15, Miataroadster SS Kit, FM Crossflow Radiator and Stage I fans, Mazdaspeed motorsports motor mounts, ES Poly diff bushings, FM oil filter relocate, Speedhut Boost and temp gauges, AEM wideband, JCALD seat rails.
TurboToy
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 366


Ti Turbo Toy


« Reply #23 on: July 20, 2016, 11:37:50 AM »

Ah, my mistake on those 15's. It filled the wheelwells pretty nice, but I suppose it is due to the suspension.
I guess that's fairly streetable, no bottoming out?

Unfortunately I am still on hold regarding my repairs. My buddy got busy and had to delay until Friday... probably Monday.
I have gotten quite a direction so far - hope a good update is in the future.
Thanks yinz guys.
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'04 Titanium, #2,641 - Bone stock; Big Pimpin'.
TurboToy
Fourth Gear
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Ti Turbo Toy


« Reply #24 on: July 23, 2016, 08:12:50 PM »

 Sad    <- that there's my impression of a 'Grand Touring' trim. I hope it's a softie suspension,
and the Club PRHT of 13-14-15? are tighter.
I drove two today, and they seem fun, chuckable, but in a rolly poly kinda way. 
The sound is meh...okay. The top is quite a nice job. But it lacked that MSM snappiness.
So my fingers AND toes are crossed I can be saved with a coilover job.

Anyone heard of TPG tuning, outside Pittsburgh?  They wrench up turbo Mazda 6s, Subies and such. If my guy
falls through this week again, I ought to just truck it up there if it's a ripe time for it. Haven't called yet there.

I'll search around a bit, but I'd love to see a poll somewhere, the best wheel/tire/coilover setup, if you had
start from scratch?
Hope yinz are having a nice weekend n' at!


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'04 Titanium, #2,641 - Bone stock; Big Pimpin'.
'95MSM
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« Reply #25 on: July 24, 2016, 01:05:34 AM »

If trying to keep to a reasonable budget, I love Koni Sports (yellows) with FM springs, any lightweight (<11 lbs) 15" wheel and more or less any summer performance tire. My last two sets have been Dunlop Star Specs.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
rotorglow
Toyotae non carborundum.
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2699


« Reply #26 on: July 25, 2016, 03:53:06 AM »


best wheel/tire/coilover setup, if you had
start from scratch?

There are almost as many opinions on this as there are people on the forum. Some of those opinions might even be well thought-out!

I went with Koni yellows and 550/375 springs on Ground Control collars, because I knew a lot of fast people who used Konis, and the FM springs felt too soft to me on the dearly-(for many) departed NB Tokicos in another MSM. FM never really had much good to say about Konis until Tokico stopped making Illuminas for the NB, but people have been winning on them for a long time.

The price was right, and though I don't remember the exact timeline, there wasn't anything that suited me in the VMaxx line at the time.

550 in front is definitely firm, and it's the practical limit for the Yellows.  Stiffer than that and you need the short-body Koni Race shocks at double the price. The next time I pull the suspension apart or if money was no object), I'll put Xidas in, at 700/400 or (less likely) 800/500 springs. Car is increasingly focused on autocross, now that I have a big German car for long trips.
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2004 VR Sport: FM Big Enchilada w/ Hydra 2.7 + DeatschWerks 700cc injectors + FM crossflow rad + 3.63 rear gears + ES poly diff bushings + comp motor mounts--Koni Sports + Ground Control 550/375 + Racing Beat 1.125" bar + blocks & bolts--Wilwood/AX6 brakes--15x8 6ULs + RE-71Rs--Speedhut + Clearwaters + Auxmod + other misc electrics
'95MSM
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #27 on: July 25, 2016, 06:23:02 AM »

To make comparing spring rates easier:

Source      front/rear      ratio
OEM MSM    215/158      1.36
FM springs   318/233      1.36
"typical" Ground Control Koni kit 375/275 1.36 (lots of variation from GC - they'll sell you almost any combo of spring rates)
Vmaxx         391/258      1.52
Spec Miata   700/325      2.15

Notice a trend in the first three?
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
millsj
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #28 on: July 25, 2016, 11:54:03 AM »

Why does the SM suspension run such a stiff front spring?
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
'95MSM
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #29 on: July 25, 2016, 04:49:56 PM »

I'm not entirely sure. It may be the result of trying to making an open diff work, thereby avoiding the expense of a Torsen (I can't imagine any of the original viscous diffs from the 1.6 cars still working). A lot of roll stiffness in the front end helps keep the inside rear wheel from going up in smoke at corner exit. SM is a gateway class, with a lot of new drivers. They may have designed in some push to keep each new crop of drivers alive.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
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