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Author Topic: Moving On; Beyond MSM  (Read 19261 times)
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m3fan4ever
Third Gear
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Posts: 146



« Reply #45 on: September 15, 2016, 06:11:16 PM »


Bummer about the adjustments, as I thought dampers had knobs on the bottom. Perhaps I was looking at a different set up. Glad to hear the Teins work well for you overall.

Just to confirm what I'm *pretty sure* think I know-  to adjust the height, you do need to lift the car, remove wheels, and spin those rings around, correct? (I just hope to have time at the shop to sort all this out, as the old lady warden at my condo will write me up if I so much as windex a window on the property, let alone take wheels off and so forth)

I agree with what rotorglow said in the last post about the adjustment knobs.

As for the height adjustment, you are correct. There is an adjustment nut with a locking nut. The proper tools come with the coilovers. It doesn't take long once you get the process down. Obviously the first one takes the longest, then you can get the rest pretty quickly by setting them the same as the first and going from there.

One thing to think about: if it is going to be difficult to adjust the height later, make sure to set it up slightly high at first since the springs will settle. If you set it perfect as soon as you install them it will probably be too low after a couple weeks.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2016, 06:16:52 PM by m3fan4ever » Logged

2004 MSM Ti GT #1796 - Purchased 12/13
Flyin' Miata "Little Enchilada"; Flyin' Miata "Happy Meal" (10.3 lb flywheel); 15x7 Advanti Storm S1, Dunlop Direzza DZ102; Tein Street Advance Coilovers; Hawk HPS Brake Pads; Mazda Competition Motor Mounts; MiataRoadster Tall Angled Short Shifter Kit, VMS Racing Type-R Shift Knob; KOYO Hyper-V 36mm Radiator; Autometer Boost Gauge, Linear Water Temp Gauge Mod, Oil Pressure Light Mod; Xentec HID Conversion - 6000K 55W; Plastidipped Badges
'95MSM
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Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #46 on: September 16, 2016, 04:46:53 AM »

Good springs don't settle, but pre-load in the suspension bushings will. If I had a spring change on me, it would be going straight back to the manufacturer.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
TurboToy
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 366


Ti Turbo Toy


« Reply #47 on: September 23, 2016, 12:15:22 AM »

Eek... true love awaits! She's done, but I have a looong night to stew over it before getting it Friday. Hate to put a price on love, but... did I get raked over? $880 out the door...!? She'll probably ride amazingly, and I'll be all entranced by it, and think $880 was a steal...but isn't that a bit stiff?
For this labor, no parts really;
-Install new coilovers
-Install new cobalt end links, on original sway bars
-Replace 2 wheel bolts, and just mount new wheels/pre-balanced tires from tire rack.
- $160 of it was for 4 wheel alignment, which I thought was $90-100 tops?
The mechanic said she's all stitched up, handles tight, good to go. Hope the pickup and debut ride goes well tomorrow. (I really won't feel 100% at ease until I see all wheel gaps are equal, and the coilovers are at the same ride
height setting; I'll lose my marbles if the coilovers are all at different heights to present the illusion of a straight chassis and proper stance).
Question - I guess part of the $880 revolves around convenience of disposal. Should I have all the old stuff chucked into his dumpster? I'm thinking I should try to load the old bits in my Subie and hold on to them.
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'04 Titanium, #2,641 - Bone stock; Big Pimpin'.
'95MSM
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Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #48 on: September 23, 2016, 12:39:03 AM »

$620 for the non-alignment work seems pretty stiff unless they actually (& properly) corner weighted the car. Four wheel scales properly leveled require an investment normal shops rarely make. They have to make that back some way.

I wouldn't get too worked up if the spring perches are different side to side. If they are grossly off, I would ask for an explanation, but you whacked the car pretty hard and only a perfectly square chassis with perfect weight distribution will go together with the left and right shocks set exactly the same.

I might ask them if they set the end-links while the car was on the alignment rack. If they say no, I'd want to hear them tell me they leveled the car (all four wheels, or at least level side to side front and rear) and set the links for zero pre-load. If they just installed them set to equal lengths, you didn't get the very thing adjustable end links were invented for.

I would have happily done the non-alignment work for $600. Very happily, and I've got the scales and what not to do it.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
mr_hyde
Global Moderator
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 7213


Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #49 on: September 23, 2016, 07:28:14 AM »

Question - I guess part of the $880 revolves around convenience of disposal. Should I have all the old stuff chucked into his dumpster? I'm thinking I should try to load the old bits in my Subie and hold on to them.

What are the old bits again?  Generally, keep everything - they will have some value and if not, will go to recycle easy enough.
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
TurboToy
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 366


Ti Turbo Toy


« Reply #50 on: September 24, 2016, 08:19:46 PM »


I'll also pick up the dirty ol' original suspension parts, which I'll hold on to as well.

I'm going back there Monday, in my dd to pick up the parts. My mechanic said we'll
have to 'adjust it' once everything settles, so I'll bring it back eventually for
a lookie loo, and to get the ball rolling on talks of lil' enchilada install.
Not sure what 'adjustments' he could be talking about though.

The ride is simply joyous. It takes bumps like a brand new, much different car.
It's not at all stiff like it use to be on the ol' boat achors, original deal. The
bumps are felt, but it's not the jar it used to be. And of course, she's glued
to the road, not much lean to speak of either. I guess I can't really find a fault?

Other than the damn droop is there! The driver front wheel is tucked up 3/4"
up in there. No one ever spots it, but it's all I see! I need to look closer at the
settings, but it wasn't drooping when I picked it up. Ah, mysteries.

Maybe the connecting points (dunno the term), where the control arms connect to
the chassis? Could that entire assembly have been folded in?

Despite the droop, it was a good move, chucking $2.5k at a car worth... well, I'd
rather not think what it was worth, pre-fix.

Rookie question of the day is...
Having kept the same tire, BFG g force, but gone from 17 to 16" wheel,
with more sidewall... do the tire pressures remain the same as recommended
on the door? Hey 29 in front, 32 in the rear. I didn't even have to check! Pro-am now!

« Last Edit: September 24, 2016, 08:58:31 PM by SilverMiataRacer » Logged

'04 Titanium, #2,641 - Bone stock; Big Pimpin'.
'95MSM
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Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #51 on: September 25, 2016, 03:34:32 PM »

To get the "perfect" tire pressure that reflects how you use the car you'll need to wear out a set.

I'm on 205/50x15 with 7" wide wheels. 25 psi (cold) gives me very even tire wear, but I will kick them up 3 or 4 psi if I'm going to spend a day running hard through the twisties.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
TurboToy
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 366


Ti Turbo Toy


« Reply #52 on: September 25, 2016, 07:46:18 PM »

Much thanks for the edit, Mr. Moderator Sir.
I just set the tire pressure pretty much at your recommendation, 95MSM.
Just did the door card's 29fr, 32rr. I hope that correct despite ditching 205/40/17 and using 205/45/16's.
Evidently the tires were shipped and put on at 40psi all around.
I just do boring city drives with a good ol' twisty road here and there, maybe 5k a year.
I haven't driven it much since setting the tires, but I suppose it's a tad more absorbent?
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'04 Titanium, #2,641 - Bone stock; Big Pimpin'.
'95MSM
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Posts: 6076


Turbo clocked downward, new i/c plumbing


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« Reply #53 on: September 26, 2016, 05:27:31 PM »

Yes, the tire will ride nicer at lower pressures, but I set mine there because they wear more uniformly. The better ride was a by-product.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
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