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Author Topic: About to pull head: questions.  (Read 5321 times)
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SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #15 on: August 30, 2016, 11:45:19 PM »

Pay very careful attention to the position of the key in the crank nose.  It has a slight curve on one side of one end.  Pay attention to where that is positioned and make sure you put it back in the same way.  My choice is to use a new key, new crank bolt and new pulley bolts and Loctite and torque them carefully.
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Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

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Ex36
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« Reply #16 on: August 31, 2016, 02:54:45 AM »

I have all those bolts and the key new on order from the dealer.  Boy, I discovered my problem though.  The very outer edge of my crank pulley, the part that sticks through the accessory belt drive pulleys and the trigger wheel has a ring of corrosion, which makes it effectively kind of mushroomed outward.  It took about 20 minutes of yanking on the pulleys and walking them forward to finally free them.  The trigger wheel is presenting more of a challenge since it's thin and has less substance.  Man, I should have paid a shop to do this--poor suckers would have eaten hours and hours of labor because no quote would have been high enough!
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Ex36
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« Reply #17 on: September 05, 2016, 03:38:41 PM »

I got the head off!  2 quick questions:

1.  How clean do I need to get the bottom of the head and the top of the block?  There's lots of black residue that I worked at for awhile with parts cleaner.  Now the only way to remove what hasn't come off would be a plastic putty knife and lots of patience (I know I need to be careful not to scar up the surface).  Is that worth it or not?

2.  As I tried to remove the head, I knew I would inevitably have a thing or two still tethering it (which I did).  So, as I tried to remove it I tilted it up and put it down a couple times.  I was trying to be careful, but I probably didn't have it sitting back on the centering dowels and therefore a touch out of place.  Now that I have it off I see that the valves are pretty close to the edges of the piston walls, and they extend down pretty far depending up cam position.  How fragile are they?  I don't know that I did, but if I put weight on them are they very fragile?  I've moved the cams around and inspected all valves as they close and nothing looks amiss, but I figure a problem might not be apparent to my eye.
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'95MSM
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« Reply #18 on: September 05, 2016, 04:01:03 PM »

IMHO it would take more than the weight of the cylinder head to bend a valve IF you always set the head down softly and never leaned on it.

I don't believe it would be possible to visually spot a valve bent enough to eventually become a problem without having it out of the head. If you pull the valves out, I would lap them and examine the resulting pattern. Depending on how many miles you have on the engine, that might be a pretty good idea at this point anyway. Unfortunately, pulling the valves out is difficult (impossible??) without a special tool that allows access to the keepers while the spring is compressed.

You want the block & head to be completely clean. The pattern of the head gasket will "stain" the metals, so you'll never get it to look just-machined, but you don't want any residual material. Zip/zero/nada. FLAPS will have gasket scrapers that will work better than your plastic putty knife.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
Ex36
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« Reply #19 on: September 06, 2016, 07:36:53 PM »

Yes, I was pretty gentle with the head--I knew it was fragile.  I had myself and my son lifting it, so we had enough muscle to be careful, and my daughter was a "spotter" looking for tethers keeping it from being freed.

I'm not too inclined to do any more disassembly (I don't feel I want to mess with cam, lifter, and valve removal).  That makes me a feel a little lazy, with the head currently sitting on my workbench and all, but I am sick of not having the car to drive (with glorious NC fall weather right around the corner) and sick of spending money on it.  My exhaust manifold gasket was a mess--clearly leaking badly for a long time at #4.  So that will be fixed and likely accounted for poor turbo power.  What remains a small mystery are my slightly bad compression and leak-down numbers for #1 and #2, which I don't have an answer for.  I couldn't tell that the head gasket was compromised in any way, but then again I also didn't put many miles on the car with it being suspect (after my two big backfires) so I wouldn't necessarily expect tell-tale signs (though I'm ignorant about such things).  I did find the coolant overflow bottle cover blown off, so it seems the coolant system got over-pressurized.

I'm close to buttoning it back up.  The dang pulley boss on the outside of the crank pulley is still giving me fits.  Patience got the harmonic balancer and trigger wheel off, but now I'm stuck with the pulley boss, toothed crank pulley behind, and Woodruff key to remove in order to complete the TB service.  They're stuck and I'm frustrated!
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mr_hyde
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« Reply #20 on: September 08, 2016, 02:02:02 AM »

If you are curious about your valve seats, you an put the head upside down and rotate the cams so the valves in #1 are closed all the way.  Drop a few tablespoons of gas in the bowl and see if it leaks out.  Repeat for each cylinder.  If you find one that runs right out like an open drain, it would be worth having a shop lap the suspect valves at least.  It would be a shame to reassemble a 'problem' with as far as you have it apart.
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Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

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'95MSM
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« Reply #21 on: September 08, 2016, 04:26:37 AM »

^ Good suggestion.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
Ex36
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« Reply #22 on: September 08, 2016, 05:38:08 PM »

Thanks for the suggestion--I had heard of such an approach, perhaps with carb cleaner (probably same difference).  I haven't looked at what's involved other than to know I'll have to plug the spark plug hole.  I'm not sure if the plugs are short enough that I can insert by hand on the top side and flip the head over without it hitting the workbench?  Also, do you know what size wrench goes on the cams?  I tried an adjustable and it's so bulky it's too easy to catch the sides of the head when the valve springs suddenly rotate the camshaft.
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'95MSM
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« Reply #23 on: September 08, 2016, 09:02:54 PM »

I've always used adjustable (Crescent-style) wrenches. Just make sure they fit the raised section on the camshaft well.

Which has prompted me to wonder if anyone is applying the wrenches to the actual lobes. Don't do that - there is a raised boss cast into the shaft of the camshaft. Put the wrenches there.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
mr_hyde
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« Reply #24 on: September 09, 2016, 02:08:50 AM »

I've always used a crescent wrench (generic equivalent).  Just be careful as the springs push the cam to the resting position.  Generally, all you hit is the end of the galley casting anyway.
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
Ex36
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« Reply #25 on: September 19, 2016, 01:39:56 PM »

I finally got the crank pulley off--wow!  I had to make a special tool to extract it (customizing a cheap 2-jaw puller ) and it let loose with a pop.  At this point I have 2 questions:

1.  Any recommendation about what to use to clean the light corrosion (that was fusing the crank pulley to the crank) off the crank nose?  Anything I should apply as I reassemble to try to make this job easier in the future?

2.  I tested my valves by filling the top of each combustion chamber with carb + choke cleaner.  It loosened up a fair amount of the carbon build-up.  And I also used this to wipe the tops of the pistons.  But I haven't been very aggressive about it and there's still a good bit left.  Should I leave "as is" or work harder at it?
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'95MSM
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« Reply #26 on: September 19, 2016, 04:13:07 PM »

If your cleaner is working decently, try to clean all of the deposits off - hot spots in the deposits can cause detonation. The downside of cleaning is that a scratch in the piston can also promote detonation, so if you are scraping, proceed with caution.

I seem to recall that Mopar sells a particularly good combustion chamber cleaner intended to be used without any dis-assembly.
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'05 running gear + '95 body
3.63 ring & pinion FM content: Blouch compressor mod, FM-Link, i/c & no-MAF intake.   BEGi: Stainless SGDP w/ metal core performance cat.   Custom stuff: Compressor clocked downward w/ new i/c pipe, big radius throttle elbow, 2.5" mid-pipe w/ Hushpower II, dual 2" axle-back w/ open Supertrapps, Toyota 4 pc cop ignition

245.2 whp on default FM-Link maps (with OEM midpipe)
Ex36
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« Reply #27 on: September 20, 2016, 02:59:49 PM »

I spent a good while in the garage last night cleaning, with very good results.  I soaked some old gym socks in Berryman's Chem Dip and let them soak against the carbon.  Then I used the spray carb cleaner (which smelled simply like aerosol acetone) and a plastic putty knife to get it all off.  The only failure was between the exhaust valves.

And...I don't know why since my earliest posts images no longer work for me.  :-(






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« Last Edit: September 20, 2016, 03:11:13 PM by SilverMiataRacer » Logged
sfcarbone
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« Reply #28 on: September 21, 2016, 02:14:40 AM »

On the crank pulley I have used semichrome polish to remove the light rust.  It is a light abrasive and does a good job without scratching the surface.  If you have anything that can't be polished out or that a fingernail would feel, then think carefully about assembling the old pieces back together.
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Ex36
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« Reply #29 on: September 21, 2016, 01:43:30 PM »

I already got some Evapo-rust at the FLAPS to work on the crank nose; I agree, I don't plan on reassembling it without corrosion remediation.

I watched a youtube video of head gasket repair.  When they replaced the head bolts, they used some sealant on the bolts since they go through the cooling galleys (seems weird to me)?  Ours seem to as well, but Keith's book doesn't discuss putting anything on the head bolt threads.  Should I just install them dry, without anything on the threads?
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