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Author Topic: MSM 394 LO Saga Continued  (Read 10480 times)
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fastgascar
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« on: September 09, 2016, 02:28:36 PM »

PO build thread http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,29435.0.html

So far task completed:

1. Flushed all fluids, boy were they dirty
2. Corrected rattle from Ebay DP rubbing x-plate
3. Cleaned up engine bay
4. Front and rear brakes w/SS brake lines installed
5. Removed Intake Heat Shield, oe windshield washer tank re-installed
6. Changed plugs, extracted broken bolt in valve cover
7. Corrected overheating issue (Factory MSM Radiator, Cooling fan motor replaced)
8. Corrected A/C (Had high side flex hose rebuilt)
9. Replaced windshield
10. Replaced Top
11. Reinstalled windbreaker, waiting on AMP
12. Installed FM O2 Signal modifier, was good for the day, but Tip in hesitation is bad

To do list:
1. Engine Mounts
2. Black out windshield frame
3. Replace hood
4. Prep body for respray
5. Coilovers or Koni w/H&R Springs
6. Change rubber suspension bushing to poly
7. Switch to 15" Wheels
8. Either a piggyback, or begi tune
9. Whatever else comes to mind

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fastgascar
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2016, 03:38:57 PM »

Windshield


Top:
Before


After
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fastgascar
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2016, 02:38:31 PM »

Window surround in black





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water hazard
First Gear
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Posts: 42


Do it right or do it over...


« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2016, 02:57:45 PM »

Looks good.  What did you do to black out the window frame?
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MSM #3092
FM Downpipe, Borla dual-tip exhaust
fastgascar
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2016, 03:29:47 PM »

I took a 1/4" irrigation line
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-x-50-ft-Drip-A-Long-Drip-Soaker-R280DT/100207806?MERCH=RV-_-OD_NavPLP_rr-_-100003898-_-100207806-_-N
put it between the glass and molding this holds the molding off of the window frame, taped up all the surrounding areas, I then wet sanded the frame down finishing off with 800 grit, prepped the surface with denatured alcohol, and sprayed it down with Satin Black, no clear. Waited 2hours in the Dry AZ heat and removed the tape and line.

« Last Edit: September 12, 2016, 03:32:13 PM by fastgascar » Logged
mr_hyde
Global Moderator
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 7213


Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2016, 05:53:09 AM »

Looks good.  What did you do to black out the window frame?

My car has a black window frame.   laugh
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
fastgascar
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2016, 05:21:55 AM »

Motor mounts:

Drivers side was completely detached, passenger normal wear. 128000 miles
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timely
Second Gear
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Posts: 88


« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2016, 10:39:20 AM »

Did you replace them with OEM or go for something stiffer?
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2004 VR MSM #2451
Engine: FM Full Intake, FM DP, FM Crossflow Radiator, 949 SuperMiata Hybrid Engine Mounts
Suspension: 15x8 Bronze Jongbloeds
Interior: MR SSK, MossMiata footwell lights, Nexus 7 Tablet Headunit
Jake
First Gear
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Posts: 25


« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2016, 03:41:50 PM »

Looks good.  What did you do to black out the window frame?

Highly recommend going with Plastidip, Peel Coat, or something similar if you're thinking about doing this for the first time.  Easier to apply, very forgiving if you make a mistake, and not a permanent change - just in case you decide the look isn't for you.

These spray-and-peel products are great for testing the waters.  I saw a few BRGs with gold wheels and kinda liked the look, so I dipped the stock wheels on my BRG in gold to see if it worked for me.  Not so much  Grin  All total, maybe $20 and a couple hours of labor saved me from a set of bronze/gold wheels I would have ended up hating.
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2005 LO MSM #462
Ex's: 2001 BRG SE #2718, 2004 VR MSM, 1996 Brilliant Black, 1991 Crystal White
fastgascar
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2016, 04:16:51 PM »

Replaced them with OEM from oreilly, lifetime warranty............. I don't need the irritating vibrations of the harder stuff. Simple enough to replace.

Yes plastidip does allow you to remove if its not a look for you. over my windshield the clear was done, so I decided to go ahead an clean the old paint off and re-spray it black, I am all in so no need to plastidip
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barmato
Fifth Gear
*****
Posts: 743


« Reply #10 on: September 14, 2016, 11:58:33 PM »



Simple enough to replace.


Thats the first time I've heard that.  Grin Maybe you need to share your procedure with us.
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fastgascar
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2016, 02:56:59 AM »



Simple enough to replace.


Thats the first time I've heard that.  Grin Maybe you need to share your procedure with us.


1. Disconnect Battery
2. Jack up front of car
3. Place it on jack stands
4. Removed front tires
5. Removed belly pan
6. Removed upper strut brace
7. Removed intake tube from throttle body
8. Removed discharge tube
9. Loosened all 8 block to mount bracket bolts
10. Removed 2 engine mount to frame bolts
11. Placed 4x4 between jack and oil pan, lifted engine until bell housing touched hull
12. Drivers side: removed plate between frame and engine mount, removed 4 block to bracket mount bolts, rotated it so that I could remove nut holding engine mount to engine bracket, removed bad engine mount, re-installed new engine mount rotated it back, re-installed the bracket to the block, slipped the plate back in between the frame and engine mount.
13. Passenger side: removed the 4 bolts holding bracket to block slide the engine mount forward and remove it between sway and sub-frame, remove/replace engine mount, slide it back into place, re-install 4 bolts holding bracket to block, slowly lower engine down on passenger side, line up the mount to frame, put the nut back on the passenger side very loose.
14. Lift engine back up enough so that the drivers side mount just barely touches the frame, shift it as needed to line up the hole, once lined up slow lower the engine, put the nut back on, but leave nut loose.
15. Tighten all 8 bolts holding engine mount bracket back to the block, you should be able to start threading them easily by hand, this is why i don't lower the engine all the way down onto the mounts, no chance of x-threading. Once all 8 are tight, lower the engine all the way down, tighten the 2 engine mount to frame nuts.
16. Re-install strut tower brace, intake and discharge tubes,belly pan, tires
17. Lower car
18. TQ the lug nuts, when done put lock for wheel away
19. Important: Re-connect battery
20. Clean tools and put them away

All done


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fastgascar
First Gear
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Posts: 23


« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2016, 01:23:41 PM »

Windows Tinted

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timely
Second Gear
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Posts: 88


« Reply #13 on: September 19, 2016, 03:01:01 PM »

What % tint did you do?  Also, have you driven at night with it and if so do you find a lack of visibility?
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2004 VR MSM #2451
Engine: FM Full Intake, FM DP, FM Crossflow Radiator, 949 SuperMiata Hybrid Engine Mounts
Suspension: 15x8 Bronze Jongbloeds
Interior: MR SSK, MossMiata footwell lights, Nexus 7 Tablet Headunit
fastgascar
First Gear
*
Posts: 23


« Reply #14 on: September 19, 2016, 03:11:23 PM »

What % tint did you do?  Also, have you driven at night with it and if so do you find a lack of visibility?

I do 5% all the way around, Yes I have driven it @ night, I don't have a problem with visibility, but they are dark.

This one has 20% on the doors and 5% on the rear.



« Last Edit: September 19, 2016, 03:13:21 PM by fastgascar » Logged
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