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Author Topic: controlling heat on the track  (Read 15107 times)
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hox
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Posts: 560



« on: September 20, 2016, 06:08:05 PM »

My last track day resulted in my coolant temps going way too high (250-260 F).  Folks here think the 37 mm Koyo radiator and factory fans are fine.  What they feel is needed is hood venting  and sealing better around the radiator with foil tape.
 
I found a donor hood and will install singular vents on it when they arrive.  What type of aluminum tape is best for sealing up around the radiator.  Since I do get a great deal of rain where I live,  I need an aluminum tape that has a robust water resistant glue.

Things I am considering:
Would a Koyo V series radiator do any better than my 3 year old Koyo 37 mm?   Street driving in the summer here,  coolant likes to hover between 195 and 200F with current set up.

Should I change to a FM cross flow with fans?
Should I pull the AC and condenser.   I never have used the AC in the years I have had the car.  So I am tempted. 

Goal is to  not damage the car, and have it be able to withstand hard tracking. 

Thanks in advance for everyone's' suggestions.

Logged

2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2016, 06:22:31 PM »

Folks there are wrong.

First the Koyo radiator, and I have one myself, is actually no better than the old plastic OEM unit when it comes to cooling but it is aluminum which does give you failure proof status.  I can't tell you about the V series but I will tell you that if your going to spend more money I would be getting the FM crossflow and be done with it.  The FM fans are also worth the money.  

The stocks fans are the stock fans, enough said.  

Sealing with foil tape is almost next to useless.  You not losing air around the radiator edges you are losing air around the whole radiator because you have no ducting.  Read millsj posting in the FAQ about building duct work.  It's big time work but it does pay off.  Foil tape doesn't help much at all.  Certainly not going to keep your temps down that much.

If you don't use the AC by all means pull the condenser.  You don't need to take everything out.,  Pull the condenser and the hoses from it.  If you want to save a HP or 2 pull the compressor and get a new shortened belt.  Getting the condenser out from in front of the radiator will make more difference than almost anything else you can do.  My 1992 with an FM turbo kit was always running hot.  Since it was basically a track car I yanked the condenser out and it solved my issues.

« Last Edit: September 20, 2016, 06:23:37 PM by SilverMiataRacer » Logged

Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway
hox
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Posts: 560



« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2016, 06:48:56 PM »

Thanks SMR,
Pulling the AC/condenser makes sense.   Cross flow would be a good addition.  Don't think I can get the ducting done before the final event of the year, but something to work on during the winter. 
Logged

2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2016, 06:53:16 PM »

The AC should make a huge difference.  The ducting would be next but it is also the most time consuming and difficult thing as it's all custom fitting work.  Joe worked with cardboard patterns and transferred them to the aluminum he used to make the duct work.

Unless you plan to go crossflow stay with the radiator you have for now.  Remember if you go crossflow someone will buy that unit you have from you for a reduced price because for a street car it's just fine.
Logged

Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway
millsj
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2016, 07:26:56 PM »

This is the order in which I did my cooling mods on our track/street MSM:
1.  70/30 percentage of water to coolant and water wetter-worked ok until the car was being driven pretty hard-intermediate group.
2.  Crossflow radiator and Spal fans-Made a big difference, but the car eventually stared overheating again.  The car is now being co-driven with my wife, so it is seeing 8 or so 20 minute sessions a day.
3.  FM oil cooler with a fresh air scoop-My wife and I are still driving the car and instructing, so the car is being pushed really hard.  Corrected the overheating 98% of the time.  I saw one afternoon where the car started overheating.
4.  Fully ducted radiator-The car is still being driven in the instructor group 8-10 (20 minute) sessions a day and no overheating even in the deep south June events.  Water temps stay +/- 215 in June and were around 200-205 at the event last weekend with temps around 85.

Here is the thread that details the radiator ducting efforts of joeereid and myself:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,27402.0.html

My other cooling mods are in my build thread.
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,25098.0.html
Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
hox
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Posts: 560



« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2016, 07:57:02 PM »

Thanks Mills J,

I have the FM Oil cooler installed and I am running 90:10 water:coolant.   Both factory fans are working so I guess that the new MS ECU and tune coupled with my improved driving (slight  Grin)  I was able to stay in boost much more.  I was also downshifting quite a bit this last track day and staying at much higher revs.  All of this combined to make a good deal more heat and the Koyo/factory fans could not scrub off the heat as quickly.  I was amazed at how fast the car did cool down staying out of boost and driving about 60 mph on a cool down lap.  By the time I finished temps were back to normal.   

I have never used my AC other than to defog the windows a few times,  so losing it would not be a big loss.   

Trying to save some money, I was wondering if I pulled the AC and used a Koyo hyper V radiator with FM's dual spal fan kit for non-crossflow radiators would work as airflow should be significantly improved w/o the ac condenser,  removing the need to dramatically improve the radiator? 

     

Logged

2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
SilverMiataRacer
Global Moderator
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« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2016, 08:12:19 PM »

This is my personal opinion.

I would not do that the reason is I just don't think the Koyo radiator is a match for the FM.  I'm going to make a suggestion that might cost you a few more dollars but less than your path.  If you need them get the FM fans for your existing radiator.  If this doesn't work then you can get the FM unit and be sure of making a real difference.  The extra cost comes in that you will need to buy a difference cooling kit panel or modify the one you had for the Koyo radiator.  But I seriously doubt changing from the Koyo to the Koyo Hyper V is worth the investment.
Logged

Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway
millsj
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2575



« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2016, 01:58:11 AM »

You could also try running the fans on high all the time. They only do that when the ac is on but you can disconnect the ac ground on the compressor for a track weekend and turn in the ac. The car thinks it is on but it isn't. I installed a switch in the cabin to do the same thing. I think the how to is in my build thread. The other option is to run the heat. That will cool things down a good bit but is isn't pleasant.
Logged

FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
joeereid
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2016, 03:36:03 AM »

A couple of other aspects to consider... Intake air and Post-session cooling. If you can get your intake air from somewhere other than the hot engine bay that will help with the vicious cycle of warm air in, hot air out, hot air in, hotter air out, and so on. The other thing is to pop the hood between sessions to shed some of the Heat-Soak. I put some computer fans in the engine bay to help evacuate the heat and they work pretty darn well.
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
mr_hyde
Global Moderator
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Posts: 7213


Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #9 on: September 21, 2016, 04:08:30 AM »

Two words:  Pressure Differential.

Every solution is a variation on this theme.  Properly placed vents in the hood to lower the pressure behind the radiator and ducting in front to raise the pressure in front of the radiator will fix your issues.  FM Fans do this mechanically.  It all depends on what works best for your application - Budget, retaining AC, not cutting up the car, etc.
Logged

2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
hox
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 560



« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2016, 12:14:23 AM »

Ok  so here is the plan.

  I will pull the AC and condenser,  I have never used AC here in Portland even on the hot drives home after a track day.   I have ordered the FM cross flow radiator and stage 2 fan kit.  Should have more room for the install of the crossflow and fans with the AC bits out. 

   I read the threads from Joeereid on obtaining male Sumitomo connectors,  got a quote from BM motorsports,  who has the male pieces,  but I need to figure out which two terminals on the connector to have Ballenger put in and make a pig tail for the two wire Spal fans.  I figure I can do this later and just cut my factor fan connnector as I do not see any reason to go back to the factory fans.   

Finally, I found a TI grey donor hood from a 2003 Shinsen SE, paint code is 25G and in excellent shape on E-bay.Should look ok for a track hood.   If it arrives in decent shape (big if  Grin)  I will put in the singular vents. 

So at low speeds and driving around the spal fans should do the job,  at track speeds, the hood vents and loss of the AC condenser and FM crossflow should handle the additional heat caused by boost. 

Jeremy at FM also told me I could develop a race tune for my ECU which uses higher octane fuel (Torco) and allows for more power with timing changes that would decrease heat output.  Something I will look into.   I am currently running one tune that may be contributing to the higher heat output on the car.

Finally I will start to develop a ducting plan for next season.  I am hoping to go either to the Ridge or PIR one more time this year.   Hopefully the car will behave and show and no ill effects of its high temp last track day.  By my reasoning reducing the pressure differential on the back side of the radiator by hood vents in addition to adding more air flow (removing the ac condenser) should improve on the cooling capacity of the car with the more efficient cross flow radiator replacing the older Koyo 37mm.  The Spal fans will only come into play on cool down laps and in town driving, or in the bumper to bumper traffic returning from the track. 

I do prop the hood after each session to cool all the heat soaked parts.   

As always, I am open to suggestions and thanks to SMR for pointing me towards the FM cross flow.   All I had to do to rationalize its purchase over the newer Koyo was to remember that I had to skip the last session of my track day because my car was too hot, by my estimation that was ~$125 in money down the drain.
   I am hoping this combination of parts makes the car more reliable for the extended future.

 
Logged

2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
mr_hyde
Global Moderator
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Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2016, 02:39:04 AM »

Sounds like a great plan!  As you work on your ducting, study millsj's ideas for getting some air to your oil cooler also.  Any heat you get out of the oil reduces the total thermal load on the overall system.
Logged

2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
SilverMiataRacer
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Posts: 25931



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« Reply #12 on: September 22, 2016, 10:08:10 AM »

Great plan.

Just to correct some thinking on peoples part.  It is incorrect thinking that the fans only work at cruise and in town.  If you fans are not working correctly at speed you will have temp control problems.  Maybe with full ducting like Joe's it might not matter but on a normal car you still need good fans working properly at speed to keep the car cool.
Logged

Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway
manniquin
Third Gear
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Posts: 186


On the Gap


« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2016, 11:06:56 AM »

Is there a good troubleshooting technique to check the fans proper operation?
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2nd - 05 MSM GT FM Little Enchilada & Rostra  - #034
11 - PRHT SE
5 - Miatas so far....
SilverMiataRacer
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« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2016, 11:09:22 AM »

None that I know of other than running the engine in hot weather and watching to see if they turn on and then turning on the AC and making sure both run.
Logged

Larry

4 Miatas but who's counting!!   Cool

White Knight    1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet     1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo  (Gone but not forgotten)
Honey B          1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2 J.R. M45
Whooosh         2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5  #403 of 4000
Subie              2006 Steel Gray WRX STi Cobb Stage 2 (Gone but not forgotten)
No name yet    2008 Velocity Yellow Tintcoat Z06 Corvette
No Name yet    2014 Ashen Grey Metallic Camaro 2SS 1LE

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.”
– Ernest Hemingway
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