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Author Topic: controlling heat on the track  (Read 2974 times)
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mr_hyde
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Midlife Crisis on Wheels!


« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2016, 07:10:24 AM »

Is there a good troubleshooting technique to check the fans proper operation?

For people using a stock ECU (I know OP is on a megasquirt), you should use an OBDII reader of some sort to observe the actual water temperature and make note of how the car behaves in different situations.  This will allow you to keep tabs on developing issues before the temp needle ever moves.
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2005 Black Mica #290 8/27/04 w/Factory Hard Top
BEGi Intake, FM Downpipe.  Nice and calm with an edge...

1990 Red - MSM Drivetrain, Adaptronic EMS, Xida 700/400, 15x9 6uls, Full Cage, SGDP w/80mm Corksport exhaust, ~260whp @ 15psi on Forged Rods.  bow2
Build Thread: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,24668.0.html

2000 BMW M5 - The Falcon - Daily Driver  reddevil

2003 E350 7.3 Powerstroke Ambulance for towing '90MSM to play dates.

1991 BRG - Daughter's daily driver.
millsj
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« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2016, 12:10:26 PM »

In the good old days, when my car would start to get hot, I assume it starts to pull timing.  The first couple of times this happened, I thought I was gaining more confidence and ability in a couple of corners.  I was able to go WOT a lot sooner than normal.  I then realized I just wasn't carrying as much speed since the car was a little down on power.   sad1  I would look down and sure enough, the car was starting to overheat.  I have an OBDII water gauge.

As Hyde said, it is much better to have a digital readout so you can watch the temps as you go and not rely on the OEM gauge.
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
hox
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« Reply #17 on: September 29, 2016, 08:55:04 PM »

Update:
AC and condenser is deleted.  FM Crossflow, shroud, and stage II Spal fans installed.  Thanks to MillsJ and Joeerid for their inputs as to the small fitment tweaks and connector know-how.  As previously described these fans are loud and powerful. 

I am currently controlling my large Spal fan using the Megasquirt fan control module which allows me to program in the temps of fan activation and deactivation,  place an "idle up"  parameters to combat droop etc and even tell the ecu to blip a bit more fuel when the fan switch is activated.    I opted to not wire the two fans in parallel and to control the second fan using a coolant temperature based trigger that allows the fan to activate at a specific temperature and when RPMs are above 3000.   The single fan and radiator are more than sufficient.  By my testing, temps stayed fixed somewhere between 195 and 200F with bumper to bumper traffic yesterday and temps right near 80F.   

The second fan would only activate when coolant temps rise above 210, presumably when I am on the track. 

My donor hood is somewhere in Dallas, Tx  right now so hopefully it will arrive before the winter  laugh .   My plan to install the singular vents will use a Fein Multimaster as I have one of these with a metal cutting blade.   I have used this tool quite a bit to remodel our home and I I know it can handle nails and soft metal pretty easily.  I think it should be able to cut the hood with a good deal of control with this tool and I eliminate the issue of  cutting wheels disintegrating.   I'll probably practice this week-end on a few pieces of plywood to get the feel of the device again.


Finally, I am developing a ducting plan.  MillsJ and Joeerid, and Lokeil  have very nice threads on this topic.  I may opt  to use 1.7 mm abs sheets.  These are flexible and can be riveted and can be trimmed with scissors.  I got the idea from reading other ducting strategies and this material was deemed a good source for custom fitting air dams and block offs necessary to direct flow into the intercooler and radiator.   I'll get the bumper off the car this winter and try a bit of this material first.   
 

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2004 TI Gray MSM:  Production number: 2209 Production date: 2004-03-30
Modifications:

ECU: MSPNP-Pro, Tuned by KO Racing and Adrenaline Racing
Current output: 205 whp, 214 1b/ft torque @ 11 psi.

Roll Bar: Boss Frog Clearview with harness bar

Fuel: DW300 fuel pump, Fuel injector clinic 775cc injectors

Gauges: Autometer Ultra Lite II: boost/vac, full sweep water temp , full sweep oil temp

Engine: Flyin Miata CAI, FMII elbow with GM IAT,  Flyin Miata downpipe and exhaust, Skunk2 throttle body, FMII cold side piping.  FM oil return check valve, AWR/Mazdacomp hybrid motor mount system, Stock MSM Coils, MagnaCore plug wires

Drivetrain: MiataRoadster Short Shifter, ACT HD Clutch, ACT StreetLite Flywheel,  Energy Suspension Poly Differential mounts,

Suspension: Xida CS coilovers 550F/350R, Racing Beat Endlinks, Racing Beat 1.125 tubular front sway, factory rear sway, Bauer extended lower ball joints, R-package tie rod ends

Wheels/Tires/Brakes : Gen 4 6ULs 15x8, Yokohama AD08 205 50 15, Street Pad: Carbotech 1521, Track: Cobalt Friction XR2/XR4, Powerstop slotted rotors

Cooling: AC delete, Flyin Miata Intecooler, Flyin Miata Crossflow radiator, Spal stage II fans, 90:10 water: coolant+ water wetter, Flyin Miata Oil Cooler

Seats/harness/safety: Marrad LX1,  Schroth Profi II 6pt harness, Hans

Alpine CDE-SXM145BT CD Receiver Single DIN,  Alpine door speakers and tweeters.   Sirius/XM enabled with rear deck antenna.  

Fluids: Differential: Amsoil SVG, Transmission: Amsoil MTG, Motor: Amsoil Dominator 10W30 track,  Mobil1 0W40 Street.  WIX or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter
millsj
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« Reply #18 on: September 29, 2016, 09:01:47 PM »

Glad to hear the cooling mods are helping.  Just an FYI, in OEM fashion, the fans kick on at 204 degrees and turn off at 197.  With the the Spal fans, they don't run long when driving around town. 
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FM full intake, FM DP and Exhaust, AFCO Shocks (550/400 lb springs), FM O2 Modifier, Hallman MBC with in-cabin controller, Stewart-Warner Boost Gauge, HDHCDD with Harness Bar, RB 1.125" Front Sway Bar, E-bay Delta Fin 27x7x2.5 FMIC, Ultra-Shield Rally Sport seats, Carbotech XP-12/10 pads, SS Brake Lines, PLX DM-100 Multi-Gauge, FM Crossflow Radiator, Spal Fans, FM Oil Cooler, custom in-dash oil pressure warning LEDS, i-Shift LED shift lights, 15x9 bronze 6UL track tires, COT NASCAR wing, DIY front splitter, fully ducted radiator.
joeereid
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #19 on: September 29, 2016, 10:14:03 PM »

Excellent progress...let me know if that donor hood  doesn't make it....I may have a spare or two around here.
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05 Mica, Sparco Speed, Hard Dog ACE with custom harness bar, Ultrashield 6 point harnesses,FM complete intake, O2 mod, FM downpipe, MR short shifter. Xida 700/400, 3.63 R+P (Spare), 3:9 R+P (current),EWUSA FMIC, Derale hardline delete PS cooler, FM Stage 2 fans w/ OEM connectors, Custom fab IC/Rad ducting, custom cowl intake/heatshield, Ultragauge,Rumblestrip Predictive Lap timer, APR custom mounted rear wing, Custom made streetable/removable front splitter, Run-Cool hood Louvers
Canyonfive
National Champion BSP
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« Reply #20 on: October 06, 2016, 03:30:34 AM »

You could also try running the fans on high all the time. They only do that when the ac is on but you can disconnect the ac ground on the compressor for a track weekend and turn in the ac. The car thinks it is on but it isn't. I installed a switch in the cabin to do the same thing. I think the how to is in my build thread. The other option is to run the heat. That will cool things down a good bit but is isn't pleasant.

I turn my heater to defrost on full heat when I step out between autox runs and it get both fans on and then both off within a minute or two. Cools the car off quick. Ill record temps next time
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www.miataspeed.com My YouTube Channel
My BSP build thread
Ebay IC, Custome Koni 2812's by Guy Akney, FM Intake, FM DP, Hallman Pro Rx @ 10psi, GFB VTA BOV, Carbotech Brake Pads F/R, 15 X 10 Custom Wheels, Hooiser A7's,  Memory Fab/ lotus seats , Custom from sway bar , Muffler Delete, Hydra 2.7 EMS Launch Control Flat shift E85 , 550RC's, Fuel Lab fuel filter,
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