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Author Topic: HYDRA ECU Emissions testing  (Read 7109 times)
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bossman4
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« on: March 14, 2005, 02:39:59 PM »

I am wondering about the process for emissions testing for the Hydra ECU. I have read that it does not have an OBD-II connection. Therefore, it appears that you need to remove the unit and substitute the original. I am assuming it is not too big of job and the stock unit should not have any signals after it started up since you kill the memory when you uninstall it. It seems like you need to have the original ecu installed for a period of time for it to get settled in. Here is the predicted Virginia emission testing.

What happens during an OBD II emissions inspection?

The OBD II inspection is anticipated to take less time than current procedures, and provides a more comprehensive picture of vehicle emissions than the current test for tailpipe emissions. This is because the OBD II system tests the vehicle while it is actually being operated under a variety of day to day driving conditions, whereas the traditional tailpipe test measures emissions only at a particular moment in time. The expected emissions inspection procedure for most 1996 and newer vehicles will be as follows:

The inspector will perform a free preliminary inspection of your vehicle. If problems are found, the vehicle will be rejected from testing until the item(s) is corrected.

If the vehicle is safe to test, the inspector will enter vehicle information into the emissions analyzer system.

The inspector will determine if the "Check Engine" light is operable, and enter this information into the analyzer.

The inspector will then attach a data cable to the vehicle's onboard computer diagnostic link connector, and evaluate whether the vehicle is ready for an OBD II inspection. All OBD II equipped vehicles have internal test programs that must be completed during various phases of vehicle operation. It is only after the vehicle has run through these conditions, such as various accelerations and cruise speeds for example, that the vehicle will be ready for the inspection. It can take several days of normal driving for these onboard diagnostic programs to run. Disconnecting the vehicle's battery to reset the computer and turn off the malfunction indicator light will only cause delay by requiring additional driving time for the OBD II system to complete those self-tests again. All of the vehicle's computerized monitoring systems are checked to see if they are ready to be tested. If more than two of the monitoring systems are found to be "not ready" for 1996 to 2000 model year vehicles, or more than one monitoring system is found to be "not ready" for 2001 and later model year vehicles, the vehicle is rejected from testing at no charge and the vehicle must be operated until the system is ready to test. Learn more about OBD II monitors. Once the vehicle is determined to be "ready," the emissions inspection will proceed, and the inspector will download any diagnostic trouble codes that are stored in the vehicle's onboard computer. A vehicle will pass the Air Check OBD II inspection if no diagnostic fault codes are present in the vehicle's on board computer. The OBD II inspection will also include a visual inspection for the presence and operability of the catalytic converter, a pressure test for the gas cap, and a visible smoke inspection. Citizens will pay the same fee for the emissions inspection regardless of which procedure (OBD II or tailpipe emissions test) is performed on their vehicle.


I am assuming that if you reflash the ECU (the other option), then there should be no issues with the emissions check.
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FM DP and Exhaust
FM no MAF intake and throttle body with GFB
3.63 gears installed by PuddyMod
2.7 Hydra ECU with Wideband (auto tuned) and electronic boost in progress
Deadbolt Turbo upgrade
550 cc injectors
8" x 2" x 28" Intercooler
New Boss Frog Double Max Roll Bar (Silver)
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Modified  Windblocker
Oil Temp, Water Temp, Boost Prosport Gauges in Lo-Tek Pillar
Buck Diamond Grill
Clearwater Speakers
550 cc injectors
CG Seat Belt Lock
Thompson Automotive Oil Filter Relocation with filter wrap cooler
WR Engine Torque Dampener
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TurboDog's Dad
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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2005, 03:06:26 PM »

You've pretty much got it right. The swap back and forth is three multiplugs under the steering wheel. The car will then have to be driven for awhile on the stock ecu to get the readiness codes set. The stock computer zeroes out the readiness codes each time you disconnect the battery. The reflash should have no effect.
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bossman4
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« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2005, 05:23:49 PM »

So is there enough room to stuff the Hydra up there with the stock ECU and just plug in and out for the emissions check.... or do you actually have to replace the Hydra unit and plug in and out.  I haven't crawled under there to look and (sheepishly) have not even looked to see where the OBD II connector is placed.  Don't want the emissions guy to say "Golly, what's that!

In the order of installing things, it sounds like the intercooler and exhaust can be installed now....which raises the question on the hydra vs. reflash the stock ECU.  I have other vehicles, so I can send a unit in to get reflashed and I don't need the fastest thing in the world.
 
For the moderate tuner uppers....when do you think....you may have the reflash ready.  I know it takes time...1 month, 3 months, 6 months, never.  Just a best guess on when you will have it or you will give up.  I am assuming there will be enough of a price differential to make it worth the time to wait for the (probable) reflash, otherwise folks that want to make a moderate change in their car will make the judgement based on Hydra vs. none.

Thank you for the time to answer these questions and support the MSM.
Logged

FM DP and Exhaust
FM no MAF intake and throttle body with GFB
3.63 gears installed by PuddyMod
2.7 Hydra ECU with Wideband (auto tuned) and electronic boost in progress
Deadbolt Turbo upgrade
550 cc injectors
8" x 2" x 28" Intercooler
New Boss Frog Double Max Roll Bar (Silver)
Boss Frog Arms
Modified  Windblocker
Oil Temp, Water Temp, Boost Prosport Gauges in Lo-Tek Pillar
Buck Diamond Grill
Clearwater Speakers
550 cc injectors
CG Seat Belt Lock
Thompson Automotive Oil Filter Relocation with filter wrap cooler
WR Engine Torque Dampener
Voodoo Knob
MiataRoadster Short Shifter
Grom audio with bluetooth
Neil
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« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2005, 09:15:14 PM »

I am going to leave the stock ECU in it's original position, and install the Hydra under the dash on the passenger's side, running the wire harness behind the stereo. To switch the ecu's, it's just a matter of popping off the cover under the dash on the driver's side and switching the wire harnesses
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04 Titanium MSM FM DP Hydra ECU, 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9
bossman4
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« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2005, 09:55:48 PM »

Thanks, one more question solved. dink
Logged

FM DP and Exhaust
FM no MAF intake and throttle body with GFB
3.63 gears installed by PuddyMod
2.7 Hydra ECU with Wideband (auto tuned) and electronic boost in progress
Deadbolt Turbo upgrade
550 cc injectors
8" x 2" x 28" Intercooler
New Boss Frog Double Max Roll Bar (Silver)
Boss Frog Arms
Modified  Windblocker
Oil Temp, Water Temp, Boost Prosport Gauges in Lo-Tek Pillar
Buck Diamond Grill
Clearwater Speakers
550 cc injectors
CG Seat Belt Lock
Thompson Automotive Oil Filter Relocation with filter wrap cooler
WR Engine Torque Dampener
Voodoo Knob
MiataRoadster Short Shifter
Grom audio with bluetooth
TurboDog's Dad
Moderator
Second Gear
*****
Posts: 65


WWW
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2005, 10:25:11 PM »

What Neil said. Ecu under pax feet with harness going across. I literally swapped in maybe 30 seconds this morning. On the reflash, hope to get them out here within a month or so and see what we can accomplish.
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