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Author Topic: Mazdaspeed upgrade guide on FM website  (Read 62431 times)
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Keith
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« Reply #15 on: July 05, 2006, 03:50:05 PM »

2-3-4 can be done in any order. In our case, we'll usually change the IC first because otherwise we'll never be able to get a clean dyno run. I chose to put the IC at number 4 because it's a less noticeable difference than the big power gains that come from the ones that preceed it. But honestly, the first four are pretty much interchangeable. The downpipe is a major problem area. The exhaust, less so. The IC doesn't make a peak power gain but it prevents the car from loosing power and the type of use will come in to play here.

At what point is the stock IC a problem? As soon as the car leaves the production line.
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Keith Tanner
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« Reply #16 on: December 22, 2006, 09:53:08 PM »



Of course I did upgrade to the GFB recirc valve as a trade in to my noisy GFB BOV

Can you elaborate on why you did this swap? I'm sure it is a noob question....but, I'm about to start down the path to the FM Big Enchilada upgrade, and was going to go the GFB BOV route....what are the advantages/disadvantages of the recirc vs the GFB BOV?

Thanks in advance...... rolleyes
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eshea
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« Reply #17 on: December 23, 2006, 12:38:43 AM »

The most obvious "advantage" is that you don't hear the recirculating valve.  With the vent to atmo valve you'll hear a "psshhhh" every time you shift in boost.
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jerseymiata
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« Reply #18 on: December 23, 2006, 03:54:33 AM »

The most obvious "advantage" is that you don't hear the recirculating valve.  With the vent to atmo valve you'll hear a "psshhhh" every time you shift in boost.

I just got the full intake kit (with the recirc valve) this week.  I also had a chance to drive eshea's car (and he drove mine post-kit installation) so we can both make an objective comparison.  In mine, with the recirc valve, I have to disagree with eshea -- you do hear it from inside the car -- it makes somewhat of a "froooo!" sound, just like the sound of blowing hard through a straw -- but it's much quieter to someone observing from outside than the car, compared to the vent-to-atmosphere valve.  On eshea's car the VTA sounds like a pistol being fired; it's more of a far-off "pop" to my ears than the recirc.  I hope that helps!   Cool
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eshea
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« Reply #19 on: December 23, 2006, 04:34:47 AM »

To clarify....with either valve, you will hear the air being sucked in and it can produce a bit of drone while cruising on the highway.  Again, that's more a function of the intake itself and not the valve you choose.
« Last Edit: December 23, 2006, 04:36:22 AM by eshea » Logged
jerseymiata
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« Reply #20 on: December 23, 2006, 06:15:41 AM »

>>> you do hear it from inside the car -- it makes somewhat of a "froooo!" sound, just like the sound of blowing hard through a straw

But I * was * talking about the BOV, not the intake itself.  There still is a sound.
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Click links for details: Megasquirt Parallel ECU @ 14 psi (by Paul) ... EBC with in-dash power switch ... Absurdflow 3" SGDP / high-flow metalcore cat / catback with Magnaflow 14x9 (by TurboTim @ Shore Motorsports) ... Stock turbo ported by BEGI ... FM intake / TBI / Recirc GFB BOV ... 460cc RX-7 injectors ... AEM UEGO WBO2 ... Boss Frog Maxx ... Jeff Anderson CB Splitter ... Voodoo knob ... and much more
eshea
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« Reply #21 on: December 23, 2006, 09:14:57 AM »

Hrm....didn't notice.  Okay then.
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wrathchild
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« Reply #22 on: December 31, 2006, 08:55:02 AM »

I had a question on the order in that list

1. I agree completely.
2-3-4 is what I am curious about. I thought the stock FMIC was a major problem area? Shouldnt it be upgraded as soon as you do the intake kit and are running more boost? Or is it not really an issue until you get into the exh system as well?

I would have thought it would go
1. intake kit
2. FMIC
3. some part of the exh
4. other part of the exh

Basically what I am asking, is at what point is the stock FMIC a problem? Like I said, I was under the impression it was a problem on even a stock MSM(this coming from what I read off FMs website)



Knowing what I know about the MSM now, I would do things in a complete different order (and I am kicking myself for not doing it this way to begin with)

1. Hydra/wideband/knock sensor
2. FMIC
3. Intake
4. injectors
5. exh(full system)


I HAD the money for the hydra, and instead of buying it, I bought the intake/fullexh/FMIC/rollbar.

I should have bought the hydra before anything else.   
I agree with what FM told me when i was calling them incessantly asking questions back then (that I wouldnt see much of any gain, maybe 10whp peak)  However with how incredibly bad the factory ECU is in the lower end an midrange, I think driveability wise there would have been huge gains.


Moral of the story, if you have a stock MSM, and about 2k, buy a hydra/wideband(so it can auto fueltune)/knock sensor.   

Then worry about the rest. The car wont make as much power as that 2k could buy you, but you start with a much better foundation and a MUCH better running car than that 2k will net you otherwise.

Now I am running another EM system that has a TON of limits and compromises, which I will be selling in a year or so (maybe a bit less) and saving to buy what I should have bought in the first place.
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2005 MSM #546
Hard Dog M2 sport rollbar, Flyin Miata full intake kit, Flyin Miata full exh, 460cc RX-7 injectors, Xede, TGVs deleted. Flyin Miata braided brake lines, ebay FMIC, Tokico Illuminas w/Ground Control coils, about 130lbs removed, Kosei K1 TS wheels, Autometer boost gauge, XM roady.
mprhead5
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« Reply #23 on: December 31, 2006, 08:26:21 PM »

dosn't the new hydra for the MSM come with the wideband for autotune? I thought it was the older hydra that you had to add the wideband to. is that correct?
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#64 of 4000 completed Friday January 30th  04
Mods: BNR Turbo EVO III 16G, full intake/exhaust, Hydra 2.5, BFG Rivals. FCM Coilovers, 3.63 gears, HDHC,  
wrathchild
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« Reply #24 on: December 31, 2006, 08:55:44 PM »

yeah it all comes together now. No injects in the standard package but thats ok. 
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2005 MSM #546
Hard Dog M2 sport rollbar, Flyin Miata full intake kit, Flyin Miata full exh, 460cc RX-7 injectors, Xede, TGVs deleted. Flyin Miata braided brake lines, ebay FMIC, Tokico Illuminas w/Ground Control coils, about 130lbs removed, Kosei K1 TS wheels, Autometer boost gauge, XM roady.
mprhead5
New Fiesta ST Owner
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« Reply #25 on: December 31, 2006, 11:00:14 PM »

as long as I don't have to shell out anouther 400.00 bucks on top of having to buy a laptop and injects and a guage its all good
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http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=FZOCMIgpT3g
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=85pogIC1C4s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdOD7edsJYQ
#64 of 4000 completed Friday January 30th  04
Mods: BNR Turbo EVO III 16G, full intake/exhaust, Hydra 2.5, BFG Rivals. FCM Coilovers, 3.63 gears, HDHC,  
wrathchild
Fifth Gear
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Posts: 2589


Bush Killer


« Reply #26 on: January 01, 2007, 04:26:06 PM »

And its not "the new hydra" or "the older hydra"

They are just selling it as a package now.
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2005 MSM #546
Hard Dog M2 sport rollbar, Flyin Miata full intake kit, Flyin Miata full exh, 460cc RX-7 injectors, Xede, TGVs deleted. Flyin Miata braided brake lines, ebay FMIC, Tokico Illuminas w/Ground Control coils, about 130lbs removed, Kosei K1 TS wheels, Autometer boost gauge, XM roady.
LateralSpeed
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« Reply #27 on: July 13, 2007, 02:05:10 AM »

2-3-4 can be done in any order. In our case, we'll usually change the IC first because otherwise we'll never be able to get a clean dyno run. I chose to put the IC at number 4 because it's a less noticeable difference than the big power gains that come from the ones that preceed it. But honestly, the first four are pretty much interchangeable. The downpipe is a major problem area. The exhaust, less so. The IC doesn't make a peak power gain but it prevents the car from loosing power and the type of use will come in to play here.

At what point is the stock IC a problem? As soon as the car leaves the production line.

I've read that with the stock IC stock MSM's can lose as much as 14hp just to heat soak. Now, with that in mind, if I go with the I/BC/DP/E first and then the FMIC last is there anything I should worry about reliability wise? I mean, should I worry about damaging my engine due to excessive heat or anything with that installed and only running at 10psi for about a month before I get the FMIC?
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Current ^
'05 RX8 - Stock on 19's
'04 VR MSM #1370 born on 3/9/04 - Missed on the weekends

FM Downpipe-running open downpipe | FM Intake | FM TB inlet pipe | Boost cut bypass | FM MBC 12psi | TPS mod | 27x7x2.5 FMIC | GFB VTA BOV | Falken Azeniz rt615 215/40/17 | Autometer boost gauge | Passport Escort 9500i | removed visors | 305cc Injectors waiting to be installed...
Keith
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« Reply #28 on: July 13, 2007, 12:57:14 PM »

You won't damage your engine due to excessive intake temperatures. The ECU will pull timing due to the hotter air to prevent detonation.
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Keith Tanner
Author of How To Build A High Performance Mazda Miata
LateralSpeed
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« Reply #29 on: July 13, 2007, 03:37:54 PM »

Ok, thanks for being patient with the newb questions... but when it comes to FI engines unfortunately I am a n00b lol. You said in your email that you were just waiting for the manual boost controller to send the intake, do you know if they came in yet or if the intake will be sent out today?
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Current ^
'05 RX8 - Stock on 19's
'04 VR MSM #1370 born on 3/9/04 - Missed on the weekends

FM Downpipe-running open downpipe | FM Intake | FM TB inlet pipe | Boost cut bypass | FM MBC 12psi | TPS mod | 27x7x2.5 FMIC | GFB VTA BOV | Falken Azeniz rt615 215/40/17 | Autometer boost gauge | Passport Escort 9500i | removed visors | 305cc Injectors waiting to be installed...
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