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Author Topic: Offset & hub bore only variables when shopping for wheels? Also: Slipstream?  (Read 3686 times)
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Latch
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Posts: 166

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« on: March 25, 2005, 09:49:11 PM »

Alright.  Usually such a simple question I can answer myself with a few google/forum searches... but I'm not sure and don't want to screw it up. :oops:

Am I correct in assuming that offset is all I really need worry about when deciding on a wheel?  I've drawn that the figure (40mm in this case) is the shortest distance between a certain mounting plane and the inside face of the spokes.  Also I seem to have just discovered the concept of hub bore -- ours is 54.06mm and we can accept the 56.1 if we have a centering ring.  I think.

So if I buy, say, a set of Rota Slipstreams that claim +40 and 54.06 hub, then they'll mount with no problem, right?  Am I missing any variables?  Or should I be considering 7.5" width since our cars can fit wider tires?  So many choices.  idiot2
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04 Ti -- FM full exhaust, IC, O2 clamp, and intake. GFB noisemaker (<3), MBC, Autometer cheap-o boost gauge.. 16" Rota Slips with Toyo T1Rs.  Moss grille.  Big-ass grin (original equipment).
04VRMSMX5
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« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2005, 10:58:18 PM »

There's also the 4 lug on 100mm circle bolt pattern, and making sure the inside of the rim will clear the brakes if it's a smaller diameter wheel.
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Eric
Latch
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« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2005, 11:16:18 PM »

There's also the 4 lug on 100mm circle bolt pattern, and making sure the inside of the rim will clear the brakes if it's a smaller diameter wheel.

Whoops.  Yeah, that was the only thing I knew to look for, before.  So I forgot to mention it.  E-heh.  I just was a little unsettled when an eBay vendor said his wheels wouldn't fit because they were the 56.1 hub bore.  But the rings seem to be a good enough solution -- even to the point that some people opt out of using them alltogether.  Uff.
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04 Ti -- FM full exhaust, IC, O2 clamp, and intake. GFB noisemaker (<3), MBC, Autometer cheap-o boost gauge.. 16" Rota Slips with Toyo T1Rs.  Moss grille.  Big-ass grin (original equipment).
gtgray
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Posts: 704


« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2005, 08:40:06 PM »

Alright. Usually such a simple question I can answer myself with a few google/forum searches... but I'm not sure and don't want to screw it up. :oops:

Am I correct in assuming that offset is all I really need worry about when deciding on a wheel? I've drawn that the figure (40mm in this case) is the shortest distance between a certain mounting plane and the inside face of the spokes. Also I seem to have just discovered the concept of hub bore -- ours is 54.06mm and we can accept the 56.1 if we have a centering ring. I think.

So if I buy, say, a set of Rota Slipstreams that claim +40 and 54.06 hub, then they'll mount with no problem, right? Am I missing any variables? Or should I be considering 7.5" width since our cars can fit wider tires? So many choices. idiot2

I have Slipstreams on my 2001. they came from R-speed. They were 40mm ofset 16x7  4x100. Whe you buy R-speed you would get the hub centering rings and the lug nuts, and  center caps. Nice wheel.

Rota stuff is light and quite strong  for cast wheels. They are also cheap.. I like my Slipstreams and that is one reason why I am going to put Rotas on my MSM, GT3s in 15x7 40 mm also. R-Speed shipped me bronze 16s, so I am in neutral until the order mess gets straightened out.
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Gary Gray

FM DP K&N Filer panel
Magnaflow Exhaust, Forge MSM specific DV on the car.
Cruise Control still in the box not on the car.
15" Rota GT3s Black with Polished Lip... Yeah Muddy made me do it.
Michelin Exalto P2
LAmsm
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« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2005, 03:35:22 AM »

After quite a few experiences with wheels that need hub-centric rings. I myself will never buy another aftermarket wheel unless it is hub-centric (has the same center bore size as factory). On numerous sets of wheels, no matter the balance job (dynamic, roadforce, or even the fancy on vehicle balance) I would get bad vibrations at higher speeds (say 70-80 on up to jail time mph's).

I have found that no mater how good the centering ring, the tollerance is still not as tight as the correct sized hub bore. Bottom line is if your wheel is not setting PERFECTLY on your hub, your gonna vibrate

....again this has just been my experiences.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2005, 04:51:54 AM by LAmsm » Logged
04VRMSMX5
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Posts: 1888


« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2005, 03:56:45 PM »

Interesting, my experience has been the opposite. As a long time Tire Rack customer, almost all the wheel packages I've purchased have used centering rings. Manufacturers can produce wheels considerably cheaper by drilling a larger bore and using inexpensive centering rings compared to custom making wheels for each car manufacturers different hub size. I've never had any problems with wheels using centering rings. Just make sure they come of with the wheel instead of staying on the hub when changing wheels. Kind of like checking for the gasket on oil filters, if you change them yourself.
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Eric
gtgray
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Posts: 704


« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2005, 08:14:25 PM »

I too have good success with centering rings... after all they are really only an aid. With tapered lug nuts, the wheels are going to end up centered even without the rings if reasonable care is used mounting them. Think about the lug nut seat shape, and the perfect match of the lug nut... that it as tight a tolerance as the center bore.. only 4 times. If you add the centering aid.. there just isn't much room for the wheel to nor be centered.
Logged

Gary Gray

FM DP K&N Filer panel
Magnaflow Exhaust, Forge MSM specific DV on the car.
Cruise Control still in the box not on the car.
15" Rota GT3s Black with Polished Lip... Yeah Muddy made me do it.
Michelin Exalto P2
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